Quick answer

A more stable derivative of pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid); Has water- and oil-soluble properties; Capable of fading hyperpigmentation; Offers anti-aging benefits on par with vitamin C Key benefits: Anti-Aging, Evens Skin Tone, Dark Spot Fading.

3-o-ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C

Updated

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is the organic compound.

Purpose

This potent antioxidant is a highly stable form of vitamin C that improves skin tone, helps fade discolorations, and visibly firms skin.

Rating

BEST

Category

Antioxidant

INCI Purpose

SKIN CONDITIONING

Benefits

Anti-Aging — Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Evens Skin Tone — Brightens and balances complexion for a more uniform appearance
Dark Spot Fading — Fades hyperpigmentation and evens out dark spots over time

Alternative Names

At a Glance

A more stable derivative of pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

Has water- and oil-soluble properties

Capable of fading hyperpigmentation

Offers anti-aging benefits on par with vitamin C

Article

3-O ethyl ascorbic acid is a stable, water- and oil-soluble derivative of pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that offers all of the primary benefits vitamin C is known for, such as brightening, wrinkle reduction, visible firming, fading hyperpigmentation to restore a more even skin tone and offsetting numerous triggers of environmental damage.

As a modified and more stable version of pure vitamin C, 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid must be converted to vitamin C within skin by sodium-dependent proteins. This process within skin’s surface layers helps ensure skin benefits.

Due to the conversion to pure vitamin C being a slower process, 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid is considered a more tolerable form of vitamin C. However, like pure vitamin C, the ethyl form requires an acidic pH range (4–5.5) for optimum stability. This pH range is higher than what ascorbic acid needs for ideal stability, making 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid an intriguing alternative if your skin hasn’t been able to tolerate higher-strength (10% and up) vitamin C (ascorbic acid) products.

Research has shown which non-irritating ingredients aid the penetration of this ingredient into skin’s surface, and they include pentylene glycol, glycerin, 1,2 hexanediol, diisostearyl malate and various propylene glycol derivatives, although this list is not exhaustive.

Usage levels of 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid in skin care typically fall between 0.5–5%. Due to its stability, lesser amounts are needed compared with pure vitamin C. Levels above 5% may also be used, depending on desired benefits. Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples.

References

Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2021, pages 151–169 Life, May 2021, pages 1–13 International Journal of Pharmaceutics, December 2019, pages 1–9 Journal of Cosmetic Science, July-August 2018, pages 233–243 AAPS PharmSciTech, June 2016, pages 767–777