Quick answer

Proven ability to fade melanin-fueled skin discolorations; Considered more effective than beta-arbutin and kojic acid; May be plant-derived, bio-fermented or synthetic.; Derived from gold standard hyperpigmentation ingredient hydroquinone Key benefits: Anti-Aging, Dark Spot Fading, Evens Skin Tone.

Alpha-arbutin

Updated

4-Hydroxyphenyl-alpha-D-glucopyranoside

Purpose

Alpha-arbutin is one of the effective options for targeting skin discolorations. It’s also a potent antioxidant.

Rating

BEST

Category

Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

INCI Purpose

ANTIOXIDANT, BLEACHING, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS

Benefits

Anti-Aging — Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Dark Spot Fading — Fades hyperpigmentation and evens out dark spots over time
Evens Skin Tone — Brightens and balances complexion for a more uniform appearance

Alternative Names

At a Glance

Proven ability to fade melanin-fueled skin discolorations

Considered more effective than beta-arbutin and kojic acid

May be plant-derived, bio-fermented or synthetic.

Derived from gold standard hyperpigmentation ingredient hydroquinone

Article

Alpha-arbutin is a plant-derived or synthetic ingredient that helps to brighten, fade discolorations, protect skin from oxidative stress and promote a more even skin tone. It is made from hydroquinone and the alpha form of the sugar molecule, glucose.

Its mechanism of action on skin isn’t fully understood; however, it’s believed to work by interrupting or limiting the ability of an enzyme in skin (known as tyrosinase) from making too much melanin. This in turn helps reduce the size and appearance of surface discolorations. As an antioxidant, alpha-arbutin can help neutralize skin-damaging free radicals and also help boost skin’s natural antioxidant defenses.

It was once thought that alpha-arbutin works because it breaks down to hydroquinone on skin, but now we know that the amount of hydroquinone produced from alpha-arbutin is likely too low to play a role in its discoloration-fading benefits. Interestingly, it seems microorganisms on skin’s surface and/or exposure to UV light are the triggers that release some of the hydroquinone used to create alpha-arbutin.

Research has shown that alpha-arbutin works synergistically with other proven ingredients to visibly reduce hyperpigmentation, including tranexamic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide, and retinaldehyde (retinal).

Typical usage levels of alpha-arbutin in skin care range from 0.4–5%, although cosmetic ingredient reviews boards recommend a maximum usage level of 2% in leave-on products as being safe.

Alpha-arbutin may be produced via fermentation of soybeans. Plants such as mulberry are typical sources of beta-arbutin, which isn’t considered as effective as the synthesized alpha form.

See: Arbutin, Kojic Acid

References