Quick answer

Star ingredient of South Korean cica creams; Has potent antioxidant properties and is a rich source of amino acids; Good hydrating ingredient to soothe compromised skin; Used for culinary and medical purposes in Asia Key benefits: Soothing, Anti-Aging.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Updated

Centella Asiatica Extract is the extract of the whole plant Hydrocotyl, Centella asiatica L., Apiaceae

Purpose

This star ingredient of South Korean cica creams is a rich source of antioxidant and amino acids. It’s well known for its soothing properties.

Rating

BEST

Category

Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

INCI Purpose

CLEANSING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SMOOTHING, SOOTHING, TONIC

Benefits

Soothing — Calms redness, irritation, and inflammation for sensitive skin
Anti-Aging — Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

Alternative Names

At a Glance

Star ingredient of South Korean cica creams

Has potent antioxidant properties and is a rich source of amino acids

Good hydrating ingredient to soothe compromised skin

Used for culinary and medical purposes in Asia

Article

Centella asiatica is a perennial herb that grows primarily in Asia, and may be listed on labels as asiatic acid, hydrocotyl, or gotu kola. For years, it’s had both culinary and medicinal uses, but like many traditional plant extracts, it’s gaining popularity as a skin care ingredient. Centella asiatica first gained popularity in South Korea, where it’s the star ingredient in moisturizers known as “cica creams.” “Cica” is a shortening of the term Centella asiatica, and these creams are well known for their soothing, anti-inflammatory properties.

It has multiple benefits for skin thanks to its active compounds, including madecassoside, which serves as an antioxidant. Centella asiatica itself also has been shown to have potent antioxidant properties and to be a rich source of amino acids, and there’s additional research showing that it’s a good hydrating ingredient to soothe upset or compromised skin.

Concentrations of 5% show notable improvement in skin’s moisture content, although lower amounts also have value for skin, including soothing and antioxidant benefits. For example, amounts between 0.2–0.5% help maintain hydration and improve skin’s barrier by encouraging ceramide NS, one of the “mortar substances” that keep skin’s surface smooth and intact.

See: Gotu Kola, Hydrocotyl Extract

References

Phytomedicine, April 2018, pages 110–119 Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, August 2017, pages 311–315 Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Jan-Feb 2016, pages 27–33 Postepy Dermatologii I, February 2013, pages 46–49 Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 2010, pages 546–556 Scientific Reports, June 2021, ePublication