Quick answer

Naturally occurring, long chains of lipids (fats) that make up 16% of skin’s composition; Known to improve barrier strength, hydration, and suppleness when used as a skin care ingredient; Works optimally when combined with other ceramides + fatty acids and cholesterol; Deemed a safe cosmetic ingredient by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel Key benefits: Hydration, Anti-Aging.

Ceramide AP

Ceramides

Updated

1,3,4-Octadecanetriol, 2-(2-Hydroxy) Stearamide

Purpose

Replenishing ingredient that supports skin’s barrier strength, suppleness, and hydration levels.

Rating

BEST

Category

Emollient

INCI Purpose

HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

Benefits

Hydration — Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy
Anti-Aging — Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

Alternative Names

At a Glance

Naturally occurring, long chains of lipids (fats) that make up 16% of skin’s composition

Known to improve barrier strength, hydration, and suppleness when used as a skin care ingredient

Works optimally when combined with other ceramides + fatty acids and cholesterol

Deemed a safe cosmetic ingredient by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

Article

Ceramide AP (AP stands for α-hydroxy-N-stearoylphytosphingosine) belongs to a larger group of ceramides that are naturally occurring, long chains of lipids (fats) in skin. To put it into perspective, skin’s general composition of ceramides is around 50% and of that, 16% of those ceramides are of the AP variety.

Decreased levels of ceramides have been shown to weaken the barrier, making skin more vulnerable to external stressors. More specifically, a decline in ceramide AP has been linked to skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.

Topical application of ceramide AP via skin care formulas can step in to help fill this gap and strengthen skin’s barrier against external stimuli. In general, ceramides work best when they’re combined with other replenishing ingredients like fatty acids and cholesterol. These lipid mixtures work in multiple ways to improve skin’s hydration, texture, and suppleness. Ceramides within skin also play a vital role in maintaining skin health since they signal other processes that keep things orderly.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel’s 2020 assessment concluded that ceramide ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use. Their survey data looked at personal care products containing concentrations between 0.00005-0.2% of ceramide AP. Ceramides used in skin care are typically created synthetically but can also be sourced naturally from plants.

See: Ceramides

References

International Journal of Toxicology,  2020, pages 5S-25S   International Journal of Molecular Sciences, August 2019, pages 1-15 Biochimica et Biophysica Acta, October 2014, pages 2473-2483  Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, July 2014, pages 177-184  Pharmaceutical Research, November 2012, pages 538-551 Journal of Lipid Research,  July 2008, pages 1, 466-1, 476  Journal of Lipid Research,  September 2007, pages 1936-1943  American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2003, pages 107-129  Journal of Investigative Dermatology,  November 2001, pages 1, 126-1, 136  Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, September-October 2001, pages 261-271