Quick answer
Naturally occurring, long chains of lipids (fats) that make up 16% of skin’s composition; Known to improve barrier strength, hydration, and suppleness when used as a skin care ingredient; Works optimally when combined with other ceramides + fatty acids and cholesterol; Deemed a safe cosmetic ingredient by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel Key benefits: Hydration, Anti-Aging.
Ceramide AP
Updated
1,3,4-Octadecanetriol, 2-(2-Hydroxy) Stearamide
Purpose
Replenishing ingredient that supports skin’s barrier strength, suppleness, and hydration levels.
Rating
BEST
Category
Emollient
INCI Purpose
HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING
Benefits
Alternative Names
At a Glance
Naturally occurring, long chains of lipids (fats) that make up 16% of skin’s composition
Known to improve barrier strength, hydration, and suppleness when used as a skin care ingredient
Works optimally when combined with other ceramides + fatty acids and cholesterol
Deemed a safe cosmetic ingredient by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
Article
Ceramide AP (AP stands for α-hydroxy-N-stearoylphytosphingosine) belongs to a larger group of ceramides that are naturally occurring, long chains of lipids (fats) in skin. To put it into perspective, skin’s general composition of ceramides is around 50% and of that, 16% of those ceramides are of the AP variety.
Decreased levels of ceramides have been shown to weaken the barrier, making skin more vulnerable to external stressors. More specifically, a decline in ceramide AP has been linked to skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.
Topical application of ceramide AP via skin care formulas can step in to help fill this gap and strengthen skin’s barrier against external stimuli. In general, ceramides work best when they’re combined with other replenishing ingredients like fatty acids and cholesterol. These lipid mixtures work in multiple ways to improve skin’s hydration, texture, and suppleness. Ceramides within skin also play a vital role in maintaining skin health since they signal other processes that keep things orderly.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel’s 2020 assessment concluded that ceramide ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use. Their survey data looked at personal care products containing concentrations between 0.00005-0.2% of ceramide AP. Ceramides used in skin care are typically created synthetically but can also be sourced naturally from plants.
See: Ceramides
References