Quick answer

An ester that functions as an antioxidant and photostabilizer; Stabilizes UV filters, especially avobenzone; Can increase critical wavelength (amount of UVA protection) in sunscreen formulas; Helps boost SPF of sunscreen formulas Key benefits: Anti-Aging.

Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate

Updated

Propanedioic Acid, [(4-Hydroxy-3,5-Dimethoxyphenyl)Methylene]-, Bis(2-Ethylhexyl) Ester

Purpose

This ester functions as an antioxidant and photostabilizer in skin care, meaning it can protect against deterioration caused by light. It also stabilizes UV filters, most notably avobenzone.

Rating

GOOD

Category

Antioxidant

INCI Purpose

SKIN PROTECTING

Benefits

Anti-Aging — Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

Alternative Names

At a Glance

An ester that functions as an antioxidant and photostabilizer

Stabilizes UV filters, especially avobenzone

Can increase critical wavelength (amount of UVA protection) in sunscreen formulas

Helps boost SPF of sunscreen formulas

Article

Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate (DESM) is an ester that functions as an antioxidant and helps protect cosmetics from chemical or physical deterioration induced by light. This means it is a photostabilizer.

In this function, it also stabilizes many UV filters, most notably avobenzone. Research shows diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate can increase critical wavelength in sunscreens (a measure of protection against UVA rays) and boost SPF in sunscreen formulas. At room temperature it is a viscous yellowish liquid or a low-melting solid.

Maximum usage levels for this antioxidant haven’t been established; however, amounts between 0.3–0.5% produce the desired photostabilizing effects in sunscreens.

References

Cosmetics, May 2017, ePublication International Journal of Cosmetic Science, February 2017, pages 25-35 Journal of Cosmetic Science, September-October 2013, pages 317-328 Photochemistry and Photobiology, May-June 2006, Volume 82, Issue 3, pages 823-828