Quick answer
Synthetic or plant-derived emollient and plasticizer; Helps soften skin + improve product aesthetics; Makes heavier emollients feel less greasy; Deemed safe as used in cosmetics Key benefits: Hydration.
Diisopropyl Sebacate
Updated
Diisopropyl sebacate
Purpose
Versatile skin-softening ingredient that also helps improve product spread and make heavier ingredients feel less greasy.
Rating
GOOD
Category
Emollient, Film-Forming Agent, Solvent
INCI Purpose
PLASTICISER, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SOLVENT
Benefits
Alternative Names
At a Glance
Synthetic or plant-derived emollient and plasticizer
Helps soften skin + improve product aesthetics
Makes heavier emollients feel less greasy
Deemed safe as used in cosmetics
Article
Diisopropyl sebacate is a diester made from reacting isopropyl alcohol and the pH adjusting-ingredient sebacic acid. It’s used in cosmetics for its emollient, plasticizing, and solvent properties. It may be plant-derived or synthetic. Note that despite isopropyl alcohol being part of what creates this ingredient, the result does not maintain the skin-irritating effects that type of alcohol has.
Along with skin-softening benefits, it can also improve product spread, boost penetration of water-soluble ingredients, and help make heavier emollients such as petrolatum feel less greasy without losing their moisturizing abilities.
This ingredient is supplied as a clear, colorless, odorless liquid with fluid properties. Fun fact: diisopropyl sebacate is used in underarm deodorants to prevent a whitening effect on skin (the kind that transfers to clothes).
Usage levels of diisopropyl sebacate in skin care range from 1–10%. It is sometimes used as a replacement for silicones because it replicates some of the enviable sensory qualities this group has.
Diisopropyl sebacate’s safety as used in cosmetics has been assessed. It’s considered non-irritating to skin and mildly irritating to eyes should direct contact occur.
See: Ester
References