Quick answer
An oil-soluble derivative of hydroxyproline; Hydroxyproline is the primary amino acid in skin’s collagen; Helps preserve skin’s supportive elements; The palmitoyl portion comes from hydrating palmitic acid Key benefits: Hydration, Anti-Aging.
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Updated
Trans-1-(1-Oxohexadecyl)-4-[(1-oxohexadecyl)oxy]-L-proline
Purpose
A peptide blend that supports skin’s own collagen by helping to firm and reduce the look of lines on skin and lips.
Rating
BEST
Category
Peptides
INCI Purpose
ANTISTATIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING
Benefits
Alternative Names
At a Glance
An oil-soluble derivative of hydroxyproline
Hydroxyproline is the primary amino acid in skin’s collagen
Helps preserve skin’s supportive elements
The palmitoyl portion comes from hydrating palmitic acid
Article
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is an oil-soluble version of hydroxyproline, which is the primary amino acid in collagen. Making it oil-soluble improves penetration into skin and lips, where it works to signal skin from the uppermost layers to repair its supportive elements, leading to fewer visible lines and wrinkles. In essence, hydroxyproline is considered a signal peptide.
This ingredient works best when paired with oils or glycols since both increase its affinity for skin. Along with supporting skin’s collagen, it also offsets collagen-degrading enzymes known as matrix metalloproteinases. When these enzymes proliferate unchecked, collagen is weakened, leading to signs of sagging and thinning lips.
The recommended usage level of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is 0.1-2%; clinical studies from suppliers have shown measurable improvement of wrinkle depth when used at 0.5%.
Palmitic acid is considered safe for skin, as are proline and hydroxyproline since the latter two are found naturally in skin and its collagen.
See: Proline, Palmitic Acid, Peptides
References