Quick answer

Amino acid derivative and osmolyte (compounds that help protect and regulate water balance); Reduces moisture loss and boosts skin hydration; Promising protective, buffering and anti-pollution effects; Helps soothe skin and support a healthy barrier Key benefits: Hydration, Anti-Aging, Evens Skin Tone.

Ectoin

Updated

4-Pyrimidinecarboxylic Acid, 1,4,5,6,-Tetrahydro-2-Methyl-, (4S)-

Purpose

Amino acid derivative that primarily serves as a hydrator and exhibits protective properties against pollution and UV rays (though ectoin is not a sunscreen).

Rating

BEST

Category

Emollient, Antioxidant

INCI Purpose

SKIN CONDITIONING

Benefits

Hydration — Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy
Anti-Aging — Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Evens Skin Tone — Brightens and balances complexion for a more uniform appearance

Alternative Names

At a Glance

Amino acid derivative and osmolyte (compounds that help protect and regulate water balance)

Reduces moisture loss and boosts skin hydration

Promising protective, buffering and anti-pollution effects

Helps soothe skin and support a healthy barrier

Article

Ectoin is a synthetic or naturally derived amino acid derivative used as a skin care ingredient for its protective and hydrating effects on skin. It serves as an emollient on skin and can also have a buffering and anti-pollution effect in cosmetics.

Chemically, ectoin is considered an osmolyte and extremolyte (something capable of living in extreme conditions, like Keith Richards). What that means for skin is that as an osmolyte, ectoin helps maintain balanced hydration by maintaining the correct water balance in skin. In studies, this amino acid derivative exhibited the ability to reduce transepidermal water loss across all facial areas. Through the reduction of moisture loss and the promotion of a correct, healthy water balance ectoin allowed skin to better maintain its hydration and a smooth, soft surface.

Mounting research indicates ectoin can also help protect skin from environmental stressors related to different types of natural light, specifically UVA rays (although to be very clear ectoin is not a sunscreen), and pollutants. This protective ability helps thwart pro-aging damage that external factors can have on skin. It’s believed ectoin exhibits these benefits in part because of its antioxidant ability as well as what seems to be a natural ability to protect skin from dehydration due to environmental exposure.

Although more research is needed for substantiation, new studies also credit ectoin with the ability to interrupt the formation of dark spots, visibly improve the look of pores, support a healthy skin barrier and soothe.

Cosmetic ingredient suppliers suggest using ectoin in percentages between 0.3%-2.0%. It’s a white crystalline powder in raw material form.

See: Amino Acids

References