Quick answer
Key benefits: Evens Skin Tone, Anti-Aging, Hydration.
Gluconolactone
Updated
D-Glucono-1,5-lactone
Purpose
This ingredient is a type of polyhydroxy acid, or PHA, which is chemically and functionally similar to an AHA.
Rating
BEST
Category
Exfoliant
INCI Purpose
CHELATING, SKIN CONDITIONING
Benefits
Alternative Names
Hair Profile
Helps With
Suitable For
Role
Ultra-mild polyhydroxy acid. Gently exfoliates while acting as a humectant; no irritation.
At a Glance
Article
Gluconolactone is a type of polyhydroxy acid, or PHA. PHAs are supposed to be as effective as AHAs, but less sensitizing.
Gluconolactone is chemically and functionally similar to AHAs (such as glycolic acid). The significant difference between it and AHAs is that gluconolactone has a larger molecular structure, which limits its ability to penetrate the skin, resulting in less potential for sensitizing side-effects. Supposedly, this reduced absorption into the skin does not hamper their effectiveness.
Does that mean gluconolactone is better for your skin than AHAs in the form of glycolic acid or lactic acid? According to an Internet-published class lecture by Dr. Mark G. Rubin, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Diego, research on gluconolactone demonstrated only a “6% decrease in dermal penetration” in comparison to glycolic acid, which “isn’t a dramatic improvement.”
Gluconolactone may be slightly less sensitizing for some skin types, but this isn’t the magic bullet for exfoliation some cosmetics companies have been extolling. Polyhydroxy acids can also function as antioxidants and may promote some amount of improvement in skin’s surface strength.
See: PHA, Polyhydroxy Acid, Lactobionic Acid
References