Quick answer
A complex sugar known as a polysaccharide; Offers water-binding properties so is a humectant; Helps maintain skin’s barrier-strengthening ceramides; Can improve the stability of emulsions when exposed to heat and light Key benefits: Hydration.
Glycogen
Updated
Glycogen
Purpose
Glycogen is a complex sugar that aids in the replenishment of skin’s ceramides, in turn helping skin maintain a strong barrier. Its humectant qualities hydrate skin.
Rating
GOOD
Category
Humectant
INCI Purpose
HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING
Benefits
Alternative Names
At a Glance
A complex sugar known as a polysaccharide
Offers water-binding properties so is a humectant
Helps maintain skin’s barrier-strengthening ceramides
Can improve the stability of emulsions when exposed to heat and light
Article
Glycogen is a polysaccharide of glucose, a sugar that’s naturally present in the body, including the skin. Although its cell-energizing and signaling roles in the body has been known for decades, only recently has its role in skin been elucidated.
As it turns out, glycogen naturally occurring in skin and applied topically has been shown to help maintain and replenish ceramides, a type of sphingolipid in skin’s moisture barrier. Along with barrier maintenance, glycogen helps provide antioxidant defense from various types of airborne particulate pollutants shown to prematurely age skin.
Glycogen in skin care is often made enzymatically from breaking down natural foods such as corn, grains, or starchy vegetables. It may also be made from bacterial fermentation or animal-derived, the latter being a form Paula’s Choice Skincare doesn’t use. The usage level of glycogen in skin care is typically 0.05–0.3%, with the higher levels achieving greater anti-aging and hydrating benefits. Levels below 0.3% still offer efficacy when combined with similar ingredients. Glycogen is considered safe as used in cosmetics since it occurs naturally in the body and within skin.
See: Polysaccharide, Sphingolipids
References