Quick answer
Is both synthetic and plant-derived; Chemically, it’s an oligo ester, or short polymer; Used in hair care products to smooth the cuticle layer; Excellent cling to skin and hair helps prevent moisture loss
Hydrogenated Castor Oil/sebacic Acid Copolymer
Updated
Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic acid Copolymer is the Copolymer formed by the reaction of Hydrogenated Castor Oil with Sebacic acid
Purpose
Synthetic and plant-derived ingredient that works as a skin-smoothing emollient and also helps the hair’s cuticle layer flatten so it feels healthier and reflects light better.
Rating
GOOD
Category
Emollient
INCI Purpose
HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
Alternative Names
Hair Profile
Functions
At a Glance
Is both synthetic and plant-derived
Chemically, it’s an oligo ester, or short polymer
Used in hair care products to smooth the cuticle layer
Excellent cling to skin and hair helps prevent moisture loss
Article
Hydrogenated castor oil/sebacic acid copolymer is made by a chemical reaction between hydrogenated (semi-solid) castor oil with sebacic acid, a carboxylic acid sometimes used as a pH adjuster in skin care products. The resulting ingredient has long-lasting emollient and smoothing properties that benefit skin and hair.
The unique structural properties of this ingredient allow it to fill in the spaces where skin and hair are damaged, creating a perceptibly smoother feel. It’s an example of polymer technology that combines a natural and synthetic ingredient to create a new compound.
Hydrogenated castor oil/sebacic acid copolymer is used in amounts between 0.5-2% in leave-on products and up to 5% in rinse-off hair care products designed for intensive repair.
The safety of hydrogenated castor oil has been established and while an individual safety assessment of sebacic acid hasn’t been done, it is not believed to be a problem as used in cosmetics.
See: Polymer, Sebacic Acid
References