Quick answer

Dispersing agent, skin-conditioning emollient, and emulsifier; Can enhance the penetration of other skin care ingredients in a formulation for greater efficacy; May be manufactured synthetically or derived from plant or animal sources; Raw material descriptions range from a white to beige-gray powder appearance; Reported as safe in 15% concentration or les Key benefits: Hydration.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Updated

Lecithins, hydrogenated

Purpose

Plays many different roles including dispersing agent, skin-conditioning emollient, and emulsifying agent. Enhances the penetration of other ingredients for greater efficacy.

Rating

BEST

Category

Emollient, Emulsifier, Suspending/Dispersing Agent

INCI Purpose

SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Benefits

Hydration — Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy

Alternative Names

At a Glance

Dispersing agent, skin-conditioning emollient, and emulsifier

Can enhance the penetration of other skin care ingredients in a formulation for greater efficacy

May be manufactured synthetically or derived from plant or animal sources

Raw material descriptions range from a white to beige-gray powder appearance

Reported as safe in 15% concentration or les

Article

Hydrogenated lecithin is a phospholipid that is produced by controlled hydrogenation of the skin-restoring ingredient lecithin. It can be manufactured synthetically or may be derived from animals (egg yolk is a source) or plants.

Reported functions of hydrogenated lecithin in skin care and other personal care formulations include dispersing agent, skin-conditioning emollient, and emulsifier. As with other phospholipids, research shows it can enhance the penetration of other skin care ingredients in a formulation for greater efficacy.

As a raw material, the appearance of hydrogenated lecithin can vary depending on the source. Descriptions range from a white to beige-gray powder appearance.

According to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel’s 2020 safety assessment, the maximum reported concentration of use was 5% (for face and neck products). Any amount 15% or below was deemed safe for rinse-off and leave-on products.

The CIR Expert Panel concluded that the safety data is insufficient for products containing hydrogenated lecithin that may be inhaled (such as sprays). As such, it is uncommon to find this ingredient in those types of products.

See: Lecithin

References

International Journal of Toxicology, September 2020, pages 5S-25S Nanocosmetics, June 2019, pages 95–140 Current Drug Delivery, 2016, pages 111–120 Pharmaceutical Research, February 2013, pages 538–55