Quick answer

Can be extracted from milk or synthetically made; Exfoliates the surface of skin; Has hydrating properties and strengthens skin’s barrier; Helps positively influence skin’s microbiome Key benefits: Anti-Aging, Evens Skin Tone, Hydration.

Lactic Acid

AHA

Updated

Propanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-

Purpose

This alpha hydroxy acid can be naturally derived from milk or lab-made, and helps skin shed dead cells on the surface so you’ll see fewer wrinkles and discolorations.

Rating

BEST

Category

Exfoliant, Humectant, pH Adjuster/Stabilizer

INCI Purpose

BUFFERING, HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

Benefits

Anti-Aging — Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Evens Skin Tone — Brightens and balances complexion for a more uniform appearance
Hydration — Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy

Alternative Names

Hair Profile

Functions

Exfoliant

At a Glance

Can be extracted from milk or synthetically made

Exfoliates the surface of skin

Has hydrating properties and strengthens skin’s barrier

Helps positively influence skin’s microbiome

Article

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that can be extracted from milk but those seeking to avoid animal-derived ingredients should know: Despite such natural origins, the lactic acid used in cosmetics is typically made via non-dairy fermentation, creating a bio-identical synthetic acid that’s easier to stabilize and formulate with, plus it’s vegan. This is the type of lactic acid Paula’s Choice Skincare uses.

In a pH-correct formula (ideally a pH between 3 and 4) and in concentrations between 5 and 12%, lactic acid exfoliates on the surface of skin. It does this by breaking down the material that holds dead skin together, allowing it to shed naturally as it once did. Lactic acid also has hydrating properties (as sodium lactate, it is part of skin’s natural moisturizing factor, or NMF).

In addition to these benefits, lactic acid strengthens skin’s barrier by encouraging it to make more ceramides, a key component of healthy skin. It also strongly influences skin’s microbiome, helping to keep its first line of defense strong by positively interacting with a neuropeptide in skin’s surface known as Substance P, resulting in quick diffusion of signs skin is stressed.

Like glycolic acid (another popular AHA), it helps brighten an uneven, dull skin tone.

See: AHA

References

International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2020, pages 116-126 International Journal of Dermatology, March 2019, ePublication Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, October 2018, pages 491-497 International Journal of Dermatology, September 2018, ePublication Molecules, April 2018, ePublication Journal of the American Dental Association, April 2016, pages 255-263 Cutis, January 2016, pages E9-E11 Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, November 2010, pages 135-142 The Journal of Dermatology, January 2006, pages 16-22