Quick answer

Natural component of skin’s oil; Plays a role in reinforcing skin’s innate defenses by strengthening its microbiome; Functions as a cleansing agent/emulsifier in cosmetic formulas; Studies have shown lauric acid offers antimicrobial activity; Can be sourced from coconut oil, babassu butter and other natural fats Key benefits: Hydration, Soothing.

Lauric Acid

Updated

Dodecanoic acid

Purpose

Versatile ingredient that can function as a cleansing agent/emulsifier. Also known to strengthen skin’s microbiome and offer soothing properties.

Rating

BEST

Category

Cleansing Agent, Humectant, Emulsifier

INCI Purpose

CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Benefits

Hydration — Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy
Soothing — Calms redness, irritation, and inflammation for sensitive skin

Alternative Names

At a Glance

Natural component of skin’s oil

Plays a role in reinforcing skin’s innate defenses by strengthening its microbiome

Functions as a cleansing agent/emulsifier in cosmetic formulas

Studies have shown lauric acid offers antimicrobial activity

Can be sourced from coconut oil, babassu butter and other natural fats

Article

Lauric acid is one of several fatty acids found in coconut oil, babassu butter and other natural fats. It’s a medium chain triglyceride (MCT) also naturally present in skin’s oil. This fatty acid plays an important role in reinforcing skin’s innate defenses by strengthening its microbiome.

Lauric acid has multiple uses in cosmetics, including as an emulsifier and texture-enhancing ingredient. Its natural bay leaf-like scent can be used in high amounts to add fragrance to products, but it’s more often used as a base for cleansing agents, and, increasingly, for its skin-soothing actions.

Some studies have shown it can also have antimicrobial activity. Research continues to investigate lauric acid’s benefits as an adjunct to anti-acne treatments.

As a raw material, lauric acid can appear as a colorless solid or as a slightly glossy white or yellow crystalline solid or powder. It may be animal- or plant-derived; Paula’s Choice uses the latter.

Lauric acid is typically used in under 10% concentration in cosmetic formulas but has been deemed safe in higher concentrations (up to 25%).

References

Dermatologic Therapy, July 2020, pages 1-4 IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science, June 2020, pages 1-6 Biomaterials, October 2009, pages 6, 035-6, 040 Journal of the American college of Toxicology, 1987, pages 1-81 Tenside Surfactants Detergents, December 1976, pages 313-316