Quick answer

Replenishing ingredient that improves skin’s moisture retention; Well known for its versatility as an emulsifying agent in cosmetic formulas; Can also be used to encapsulate key ingredients to achieve improved dermal delivery; Typically derived from soy, sunflower and rapeseed in cosmetic formulas; Long track record of safety in skin care products Key benefits: Hydration.

Lecithin

Updated

Lecithins. The complex combination of diglycerides of fatty acids linked to the choline ester of phosphoric acid

Purpose

Beneficial properties include emolliency (think skin softening), water-binding (to boost hydration), and emulsifying (to help water + oil ingredients mesh in a formula). Can also be used to encapsulate ingredients for improved dermal delivery.

Rating

BEST

Category

Emollient, Emulsifier, Cleansing Agent

INCI Purpose

ANTISTATIC, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Benefits

Hydration — Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy

Alternative Names

At a Glance

Replenishing ingredient that improves skin’s moisture retention

Well known for its versatility as an emulsifying agent in cosmetic formulas

Can also be used to encapsulate key ingredients to achieve improved dermal delivery

Typically derived from soy, sunflower and rapeseed in cosmetic formulas

Long track record of safety in skin care products

Article

Lecithin in skin care formulations serves a variety of roles including functioning as an emollient (think softening), water-binding agent (to boost hydration), and emulsifying agent (to help water + oil ingredients mesh better in a formula). Lecithin is naturally present in many living organisms, but in cosmetic formulas it’s almost always derived from plants such as soy, sunflower or rapeseed.

Lecithin’s beneficial components include phospholipids (which convey skin-restoring benefits), fatty acids and triglycerides that can help replenish skin. Lecithin can also be used to encapsulate a wide range of active ingredients allowing for a better dermal delivery system.

Lecithin’s appearance as a raw material varies based on the origin and extraction process, but in cosmetic use it typically presents as a viscous liquid or as powder. In a safety assessment conducted in 2020, the highest concentration of lecithin that was reported was 50% in a leave-on foot product, which was deemed safe. Facial skin care products typically safely contain much lower concentrations than that, usually between 0.5-2%.

See: Phospholipid, Choline, Phosphatidylcholine, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

References

Cosmetics, November 2020, pages 1-19 International Journal of Toxicology, September 2020, pages 5S-25S Molecules, March 2020, pages 1-9 Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, March 2014, pages 1, 093-1, 101 Scientia Pharmaceutica, July 2013, pages 1, 151-1, 166