Quick answer
Exfoliating ingredient derived from unripe fruit; Has properties of both an alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid; Ideal exfoliating range is between pH 3-4; Also used as a food additive Key benefits: Evens Skin Tone, Smooths Bumpy Skin.
Malic Acid
Updated
Butenedioic acid, hydroxy-, (2S)-
Purpose
This fruit-derived ingredient can serve different purposes in cosmetics, including as an exfoliant (when formulated between pH 3-4) and as a pH adjuster.
Rating
BEST
Category
Exfoliant, pH Adjuster/Stabilizer
INCI Purpose
BUFFERING
Benefits
Alternative Names
At a Glance
Exfoliating ingredient derived from unripe fruit
Has properties of both an alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid
Ideal exfoliating range is between pH 3-4
Also used as a food additive
Article
Malic acid is an exfoliating ingredient derived from unripe fruit. It also occurs naturally in the human body as a by-product from turning carbohydrates into energy. Although it’s technically a beta hydroxy acid ingredient, it is primarily classified as an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) because its hydroxyl group in the alpha position is believed to be dominant to the beta hydroxyl group. Also, it is not known to be oil-soluble like traditional beta hydroxy acid salicylic acid.
Malic acid is used in cosmetics to adjust a product’s pH and, in an acidic pH range ideally between 3 and 4, as a mild exfoliant that can be used in lower concentrations (typically between 1–2%) to boost the efficacy of other AHA exfoliants such as glycolic and lactic acids.
In foods, malic acid is sometimes added to impart a sour or tart flavor. In its raw form, malic acid appears as white or colorless crystals. It is considered safe as used in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.
See: AHA
References