Quick answer

A synthetic peptide that matches a sequence of amino acids found in skin; Signals skin to look younger by boosting its firm feeling; Creates a supple surface by strengthening skin’s barrier; Requires a surprisingly low amount for efficacy Key benefits: Anti-Aging.

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Updated

Glycine, N-(1-oxohexadecyl)-L-valylglycyl-L-valyl-L-alanyl-L-prolyl-

Purpose

This lab-made peptide matches a sequence of amino acids found in skin. As such, skin recognizes and can understand the signals the peptide sends, which leads to a smoother, more youthful appearance.

Rating

BEST

Category

Peptides

INCI Purpose

SKIN CONDITIONING

Benefits

Anti-Aging — Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

Alternative Names

At a Glance

A synthetic peptide that matches a sequence of amino acids found in skin

Signals skin to look younger by boosting its firm feeling

Creates a supple surface by strengthening skin’s barrier

Requires a surprisingly low amount for efficacy

Article

Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 is a lab-made peptide that blends the fatty acid palmitic acid with several amino acids, including glycine, histidine, and lysine. Combining this specifically engineered peptide with palmitic acid enhances its penetration into skin as well as the peptide’s stability.

In the early days of peptides in skin care it went by the catchall term palmitoyl oligopeptide. The amino acid sequence of this peptide mimics that of peptides naturally occurring in skin, meaning skin recognizes and can readily utilize it.

It works on and within skin’s uppermost layers by influencing key supportive elements in skin that result in a firmer surface and minimized appearance of wrinkles. It also strengthens skin’s barrier by improving moisture retention, leaving skin feeling supple instead of rough. As a signal peptide, it can “tell” skin to look younger.

It is considered safe as used in cosmetics, where its calculated efficacy is in the parts per million range. This translates to very low percentages used in skin care, as low as 0.0000001%; however, research is clear that small amounts of this peptide can produce impressive results.

Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 is most often used on its own rather than being part of a blend with other peptides, although such blends are available.

See: Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

References

Frontiers in Chemistry, October 2020, ePublication International Journal of Toxicology, 2018, pages 90S-102S Cosmetics, Volume 4, Issue 16, May 2017, pages 1–17 Tissue Engineering and Regenerative Medicine, February 2017, pages 73–80 Biomolecules and Therapeutics, July 2014, pages 321–327 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 2005, pages 155–160