Quick answer

Hydrating ingredient famous for its ability to attract/retain moisture; May also help reduce sensitivity-induced redness in skin; Often referred to as pro-vitamin B5; Converts into pantothenic acid when applied topically; White, crystalline powder in its raw material state Key benefits: Hydration, Soothing.

Panthenol

Vitamin B5 (panthenol)

Updated

Butanamide, 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethyl-, (2R)-; dl-Panthenol

Purpose

Also known as pro-vitamin B5. Humectant that increases hydration substantially by attracting/retaining moisture. Can also play a role in visibly reducing facial redness triggered by sensitivity.

Rating

BEST

Category

Humectant, Solvent

INCI Purpose

ANTISTATIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

Benefits

Hydration — Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy
Soothing — Calms redness, irritation, and inflammation for sensitive skin

Alternative Names

Hair Profile

Functions

Humectant Scalp Active

Helps With

Damaged Sensitive scalp

Goals

Shine

Suitable For

All types

Role

Penetrating humectant + barrier booster. Strengthens the hair shaft while soothing and repairing the scalp barrier.

Universal

At a Glance

Hydrating ingredient famous for its ability to attract/retain moisture

May also help reduce sensitivity-induced redness in skin

Often referred to as pro-vitamin B5

Converts into pantothenic acid when applied topically

White, crystalline powder in its raw material state

Article

Panthenol (sometimes referred to as pro-vitamin B5) is a popular humectant in personal care products due to its ability to attract and hold moisture. When topically applied, it converts to pantothenic acid, which is a naturally occurring substance within the body.

Studies show that 1% panthenol quickly increase skin’s hydration, while decreasing transepidermal water loss (the amount of water that evaporates through skin). The overall result is an improvement in the way skin feels and looks, including a more supple appearance.

Research also shows promise for panthenol’s ability to reduce sensitivity-induced redness in skin.

Topically applied panthenol in amounts between 1-5% has been reported to aid in healing and barrier repair.

It’s important to clarify that even though panthenol is the alcohol derivative of pantothenic acid, but it is a completely gentle and non-drying form of alcohol, unlike SD or denatured alcohol, which are known to be damaging to skin.

Panthenol is water soluble and “plays well” with many different types of ingredients, making it easy to formulate with for moisturizers, serums, toners, etc. It is also widely used in hair care products and can be found in makeup products, such as powders, mascara, and lipstick.

As a raw material, two forms of panthenol can be incorporated in personal care product formulas: D-panthenol is a viscous liquid and DL-panthenol comes in the form of a white, crystalline powder.

According to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review assessment from 2018, the highest reported concentration of panthenol in a personal care product was 5.3%, which was deemed safe in its use.

See: Pantothenic Acid, Vitamin B5, D-Panthenol

References

The Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University, Accessed April 2021, ePublication International Journal of Cosmetic Science, December 2019, pages 534-547 Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, January 2019, pages 346-354 Cosmetic Ingredient Review, March 2018, pages 1-51 The Journal of Dermatological Treatment, August 2017, pages 173-180 Journal of Cosmetic Science, August 2011, pages 361-370 American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, Volume 3, 2002, pages 427-433