Quick answer

Found naturally in skin’s upper layers; Essential part of skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF); Replenishes skin’s barrier for a more youthful look and feel; Has a calming effect on skin; Named partially after the mythological Sphinx Key benefits: Anti-Aging, Hydration.

Phytosphingosine

Updated

1,3,4-Octadecanetriol, 2-amino-, (2S, 3S, 4R)-

Purpose

This fatty acid is found naturally in the upper layers of skin and helps it retain its natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which benefits skin health. It also has calming properties.

Rating

BEST

Category

Emollient

INCI Purpose

HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

Benefits

Anti-Aging — Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Hydration — Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy

Alternative Names

At a Glance

Found naturally in skin’s upper layers

Essential part of skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF)

Replenishes skin’s barrier for a more youthful look and feel

Has a calming effect on skin

Named partially after the mythological Sphinx

Article

Phytosphigosine is a long-chain, complex fatty alcohol that is found naturally in skin’s upper layers. It’s an essential part of maintaining skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF) for overall skin health. It’s also a base component of certain ceramides, which serve as part of skin’s structure.

Phytosphigosine in topical skin care products helps replenish skin’s barrier for a more youthful look and feel. Recent studies also show that phytospingosine can have a calming effect on skin, helping reduce redness and sensitivity.

Since this ingredient occurs naturally in skin and is essential for its healthy appearance, it is considered safe as used in cosmetics, where concentrations rarely exceed 1%. Indeed, amounts as low as 0.05% are considered effective.

One interesting note of trivia: the name phytosphingosine is derived from the term sphingoid, which was coined in 1884 by chemist J. L. W. Thudichum. The way the molecules of this substance lined up reminded him of the riddle of the mythological Sphinx.

See: Ceramides

References

Journal of Dermatological Science, January 2020, Volume 97, Issue 1, pages 2-8 Archives of Dermatological Research, December 2017, Volume 309, Issue 10, pages 795-803 Biochimica et Biophysica Acta: Biomembranes, May 2017, Volume 1859, Issue 5, pages 824-834 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 2007, Volume 29, Issue 3, pages 181-190 Molecular Medicine, January-March 2006, pages 17-24 Journal of Investigative Dermatology, October 2003, issue 5, pages 1135–1137