Quick answer
Surfactant composed of fatty acids (primarily oleic acid); Often included in skin care formulations as an emulsifying or solubilizing agent; Can contribute to a more aesthetically pleasing texture; Enhances the penetration of other key ingredients; Deemed safe as used in cosmetics
Polysorbate 80
Updated
Sorbitan, mono-9-octadecenoate, poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) derivs., (Z)-
Purpose
Serves a variety of roles within cosmetic formulas, primarily as a surfactant/emulsifier/solubilizing agent. Can also enhance the penetration of other key ingredients.
Rating
GOOD
Category
Cleansing Agent, Emulsifier
INCI Purpose
DENATURANT, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING
Alternative Names
At a Glance
Surfactant composed of fatty acids (primarily oleic acid)
Often included in skin care formulations as an emulsifying or solubilizing agent
Can contribute to a more aesthetically pleasing texture
Enhances the penetration of other key ingredients
Deemed safe as used in cosmetics
Article
Polysorbate 80 is a surfactant (cleansing agent) composed of fatty acids—primarily oleic acid, but others such as palmitic or linoleic acid may also be present. It is often included in skin care formulations as an emulsifying or solubilizing agent and can help create a more aesthetically pleasing texture.
Research shows it also enhances the penetration of other key ingredients such as antioxidants.
In its raw material form, polysorbate 80 has a viscous oily liquid appearance and can vary in color from yellow to amber.
In the 2015 Cosmetic Ingredient Review safety assessment, polysorbate 80 was reported to be found in up to 18.1% concentration in rinse-off cosmetic products and 11.9% concentration in leave-on formulations. It was deemed safe in the current practices of use and concentrations. That same report noted that polysorbate 80 was found to be non-irritating to skin at a 100% concentration in a clinical test setting. The U.S. FDA also classifies polysorbate 80 as a safe food additive.
See: Polysorbates
References