Quick answer
Also known as beta hydroxy acid (BHA); Best known for exfoliating/anti-acne properties; Helps skin shed in a manner that mimics youthful skin; Works most effectively in leave-on formulas with a pH range between 3-4; Oil solubility lets it exfoliate inside the pore to alleviate breakouts, congestion, and blackheads Key benefits: Anti-Acne, Anti-Aging, Blackhead Reducing.
Salicylic Acid
Updated
Salicylic acid
Purpose
Oil-soluble exfoliating ingredient that gently helps slough off dead skin cells and unclogs pores, for softer, smoother texture and tone.
Rating
BEST
Category
Exfoliant, Humectant
INCI Purpose
ANTI-SEBORRHEIC, FRAGRANCE, HAIR CONDITIONING, KERATOLYTIC, PRESERVATIVE, SKIN CONDITIONING
Benefits
Alternative Names
Hair Profile
Functions
Helps With
Suitable For
Role
BHA chemical exfoliant. Dissolves sebum deep within pores; removes oily dandruff flakes. RED FLAG in Conditioners: Unnecessary; dehydrates hair fibers and weakens cuticle.
At a Glance
Also known as beta hydroxy acid (BHA)
Best known for exfoliating/anti-acne properties
Helps skin shed in a manner that mimics youthful skin
Works most effectively in leave-on formulas with a pH range between 3-4
Oil solubility lets it exfoliate inside the pore to alleviate breakouts, congestion, and blackheads
Article
Salicylic acid (also called beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a desmolytic ingredient, which means it is able to exfoliate by dissolving the bonds that hold the dead cells to skin’s surface. Because salicylic acid is oil soluble, it also has the ability to penetrate into the pore lining and exfoliate inside the pore. This makes it especially effective for reducing breakouts, including blackheads and whiteheads.
Salicylic acid is recognized as an over-the-counter topical acne product by the U.S. FDA, when used in concentrations of 0.5-2%. Even though salicylic acid is best known for its ability to address acne-prone skin concerns, it offers many additional properties that any skin type can benefit from. Case in point, by exfoliating the buildup of dead skin on the surface, it also helps reverse the appearance of dull, uneven skin tone, as well as other visible signs of aging skin.
Unlike physical exfoliants (such as a rough facial scrub), salicylic acid offers hydrating properties that enhance the result of smooth, soft skin. Another unique advantage is salicylic acid’s ability to gently soothe aggravated skin thanks to its inherent calming properties.
Salicylic acid works most effectively as a leave-on treatment, ideally within a pH range between 3 and 4. Rinse-off salicylic acid cleansers typically have a higher pH, which likely won’t offer much of an exfoliation benefit, not to mention the contact time with skin is very brief - but the salicylic acid may at least offer skin-calming benefits in this form and can be included in amounts as low as 0.5% to achieve this benefit.
Research shows using salicylic acid starting at a 1-2% concentration is recommended for regular exfoliation within a skin care routine. For more stubborn concerns, higher concentrations can make a dramatic difference. In dermatologic practices, salicylic acid has been safely used in as high as 50% concentrations for removal of warts, corns, pigmented lesions, and other advanced concerns.
Salicylic acid has been found to be safe on all skin tones and ethnicities.
See: BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid)
References