Quick answer

Plant extract with proven skin-soothing, antioxidant benefits; Contains beneficial compounds of salicin, polyphenols, and flavonoids; Also goes by the name willow bark; Often touted as a natural alternative to salicylic acid, however research shows the exfoliation association is questionable Key benefits: Soothing.

Salix Alba Extract

Updated

Salix Alba (Willow) Flower Extract is the extract of the flowers of Salix alba, Salicaceae.

Purpose

Plant extract that offers proven skin-soothing, antioxidant benefits.

Rating

BEST

Category

Plant Extracts, Antioxidant

INCI Purpose

SKIN CONDITIONING

Benefits

Soothing — Calms redness, irritation, and inflammation for sensitive skin

Alternative Names

At a Glance

Plant extract with proven skin-soothing, antioxidant benefits

Contains beneficial compounds of salicin, polyphenols, and flavonoids

Also goes by the name willow bark

Often touted as a natural alternative to salicylic acid, however research shows the exfoliation association is questionable

Article

Salix alba extract, also known as willow bark extract, is a plant extract with proven skin-soothing benefits.

Some skin care brands tout this ingredient as a natural alternative to the salicylic acid (BHA) exfoliants. This association comes from the fact that willow bark contains salicin, a substance that when taken orally is converted by the digestive process to salicylic acid.

It’s important to clarify the process of converting willow bark’s salicin into salicylic acid requires the presence of enzymes and other biological complexities. Further, salicin, much like salicylic acid, is stable only under acidic conditions. The likelihood that Salix alba (willow) bark extract in the tiny amount used in cosmetics can mimic the effect of salicylic acid is questionable at best.

That said, there are still benefits to Salix alba (willow) bark extract in skin care. Studies indicate the salicin content can offer general anti-aging properties for skin and its other beneficial compounds (including polyphenols and flavonoids) contribute to its antioxidant effects.

In skin care, this ingredient is typically used in amounts of 0.5–1%, with a maximum recommended concentration of 10%. Amounts below 0.5% may be used in concert with other soothing ingredients, depending on formulary goals.

*If you are allergic to aspirin, follow your health care provider’s advice about using skin care products with Salix alba (willow) bark extract.

See: Willow Bark, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, White Willow

References

PLoS ONE, October 2018, pages 1-27 Phytotherapy Research, August 2015, pages 1, 112-1, 116; and July 2011, pages 1, 102-1, 104 Free Radical Biology and Medicine, December 2013, pages 1, 506-1, 515 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2011, pages 416-420 Phytomedicine, December 2010, pages 1, 106-1, 113