Quick answer
Calms factors in skin that would otherwise lead to signs of irritation; Helps reduce sensitivity-related redness; Potential to inhibit an oil-triggering enzyme in skin; Antioxidants, flavonoids and phenolic acids in meadowsweet are believed to be the key contributors of this ingredient’s benefits; Contrary to claims on the internet, this is not a natural exfoliating alternative to salicylic acid Key benefits: Anti-Aging, Soothing, Oil Control.
Spiraea Ulmaria Extract
Updated
Spiraea Ulmaria Extract is an extract of the Drop Wort, Spiraea ulmaria L., Rosaceae
Purpose
Skin-calming antioxidant. Can also help temper excessively oily skin.
Rating
BEST
Category
Antioxidant, Plant Extracts
INCI Purpose
ASTRINGENT, SKIN CONDITIONING, TONIC
Benefits
Alternative Names
At a Glance
Calms factors in skin that would otherwise lead to signs of irritation
Helps reduce sensitivity-related redness
Potential to inhibit an oil-triggering enzyme in skin
Antioxidants, flavonoids and phenolic acids in meadowsweet are believed to be the key contributors of this ingredient’s benefits
Contrary to claims on the internet, this is not a natural exfoliating alternative to salicylic acid
Article
Spiraea ulmaria extract, commonly known as meadowsweet, is a plant whose various parts have been shown to calm factors in skin that lead to signs of irritation. Antioxidants compounds such as flavonoids and phenolic acids are believed to be the key contributors to this benefit.
Spiraea ulmaria is also a natural source of salicylates such as salicin, and it is sometimes claimed to be a natural source of the exfoliating ingredient salicylic acid. However, this comparison doesn’t hold up because the salicylates require a digestive system to convert to salicylic acid (this process doesn’t happen on skin). On the plus side, these compounds share salicylic acid’s skin-soothing benefits, so there’s benefit in that regard.
This yellow-to-amber-colored plant extract seems to inhibit an enzyme in skin (5-alpha reductase) that can trigger excess oil production. Therefore, it’s likely that meadowsweet will have a noticeable positive effect for those struggling with oily skin.
Standard usage levels of this ingredient aren’t firmly defined; however, amounts between 0.5–1% are necessary for helping control signs of oily skin. Antioxidant and soothing benefits are seen in much lower amounts, a testament to the potency of this plant. It is not known to sensitize or otherwise irritate skin.
References