Quick answer

Calms factors in skin that would otherwise lead to signs of irritation; Helps reduce sensitivity-related redness; Potential to inhibit an oil-triggering enzyme in skin; Antioxidants, flavonoids and phenolic acids in meadowsweet are believed to be the key contributors of this ingredient’s benefits; Contrary to claims on the internet, this is not a natural exfoliating alternative to salicylic acid Key benefits: Anti-Aging, Soothing, Oil Control.

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract

Updated

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract is an extract of the Drop Wort, Spiraea ulmaria L., Rosaceae

Purpose

Skin-calming antioxidant. Can also help temper excessively oily skin.

Rating

BEST

Category

Antioxidant, Plant Extracts

INCI Purpose

ASTRINGENT, SKIN CONDITIONING, TONIC

Benefits

Anti-Aging — Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Soothing — Calms redness, irritation, and inflammation for sensitive skin
Oil Control — Regulates sebum production to reduce shine and greasiness

Alternative Names

At a Glance

Calms factors in skin that would otherwise lead to signs of irritation

Helps reduce sensitivity-related redness

Potential to inhibit an oil-triggering enzyme in skin

Antioxidants, flavonoids and phenolic acids in meadowsweet are believed to be the key contributors of this ingredient’s benefits

Contrary to claims on the internet, this is not a natural exfoliating alternative to salicylic acid

Article

Spiraea ulmaria extract, commonly known as meadowsweet, is a plant whose various parts have been shown to calm factors in skin that lead to signs of irritation. Antioxidants compounds such as flavonoids and phenolic acids are believed to be the key contributors to this benefit.

Spiraea ulmaria is also a natural source of salicylates such as salicin, and it is sometimes claimed to be a natural source of the exfoliating ingredient salicylic acid. However, this comparison doesn’t hold up because the salicylates require a digestive system to convert to salicylic acid (this process doesn’t happen on skin). On the plus side, these compounds share salicylic acid’s skin-soothing benefits, so there’s benefit in that regard.

This yellow-to-amber-colored plant extract seems to inhibit an enzyme in skin (5-alpha reductase) that can trigger excess oil production. Therefore, it’s likely that meadowsweet will have a noticeable positive effect for those struggling with oily skin.

Standard usage levels of this ingredient aren’t firmly defined; however, amounts between 0.5–1% are necessary for helping control signs of oily skin. Antioxidant and soothing benefits are seen in much lower amounts, a testament to the potency of this plant. It is not known to sensitize or otherwise irritate skin.

References

Journal of Applied Research on Medicinal and Aromatic Plants, December 2017, pages 1-26 Journal of Ethnopharmacology, December 2016, pages 627-636 and pages 652-666 Phytotherapy Research, April 2013, pages 588-594