Quick answer
An emollient that helps prevent moisture loss and restores suppleness to skin; Also functions as an antioxidant and helps strengthen skin’s barrier; Can be derived from olive, wheat bran, rice bran, and amaranth oils; Despite its sebum-like nature, squalane feels surprisingly lightweight and non-greasy; Biocompatible ingredient, meaning skin instantly recognizes it and knows how to use it Key benefits: Hydration, Anti-Aging.
Squalane
Updated
2,6,10,15,19,23-Hexamethyltetracosane
Purpose
Prevents moisture loss and restores suppleness to skin. Also strengthens skin’s barrier and provides antioxidant support.
Rating
BEST
Category
Emollient, Antioxidant
INCI Purpose
HAIR CONDITIONING, REFATTING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
Benefits
Alternative Names
Hair Profile
Functions
Helps With
Goals
Suitable For
Role
Lightweight stable hydrocarbon. Delivers deep hydration without any greasy after-feel; mimics skin's natural lipids.
At a Glance
An emollient that helps prevent moisture loss and restores suppleness to skin
Also functions as an antioxidant and helps strengthen skin’s barrier
Can be derived from olive, wheat bran, rice bran, and amaranth oils
Despite its sebum-like nature, squalane feels surprisingly lightweight and non-greasy
Biocompatible ingredient, meaning skin instantly recognizes it and knows how to use it
Article
Squalane is an emollient that helps prevent moisture loss and restores suppleness to skin. It is also a source of beneficial fatty acids that replenish skin. One unique aspect of squalane is that it’s a modified, stable form of squalene, one of the key components in our sebum (oil). This makes squalane a biocompatible ingredient that skin instantly recognizes and knows how to use.
Most skin care brands use a plant-derived source of squalane such as olive, wheat bran, rice bran, and amaranth oils. It can also be produced from Saccharomyces cerevisae (a type of yeast) or animal-derived, but this not the source Paula’s Choice Skincare uses.
Despite its sebum-like nature, squalane feels surprisingly lightweight and non-greasy. Squalane can also help strengthen skin’s barrier to help it be less prone to sensitivity and reactiveness.
Beyond its moisturizing properties, squalane also functions as an antioxidant. The antioxidant benefit of squalane also helps it protect skin’s oil from what’s known as lipid peroxidation, a process that damages skin’s surface and deeper in the pore lining where oil originates. This peroxidation is also believed to play a role in acne.
Note that because it’s highly saturated, squalane is less prone to breaking down in the presence of air than less-saturated squalene. That said, it’s always wise to choose packaging that limits contamination issues (i.e. pump bottles as opposed to jars.)
Squalane has been in use as a cosmetic ingredient for decades and has a long track record of safety. In 2019, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel determined squalane continues to be a safe ingredient. Their report looked a maximum concentration use at 96.8%). There is also data indicating safety at 100%. Usage levels in skin care vary depending on desired aesthetics and other emollients present.
See: Squalene
References