2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Decanoic acid, ester with 1,2,3-propanetriol octanoate; Glycerides, mixed decanoyl and octanoyl
Hydration
Payot
Retinol Renewing Night Serum
face neck serum
Payot
Retinol Renewing Night Serum
face neck serum
Added Last edited
Fit by skin type
General, ingredient-based — not your personalized match.
Dry
100%
Combination (dry)
100%
Balanced
70%
Combination (oily)
40%
Oily
40%
See how this fits your skin
Take the skin test and I'll show you how suitable this product is for you.
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14
Ingredients
6
Benefits
1
Actives
The expert retinol night serum that smooths the most pronounced wrinkles. Highly concentrated in pure retinol (0.3%) and formulated with 98% ingredients of natural origin, this night serum targets even the deepest, most pronounced wrinkles. Its keratolytic action refines skin texture and reveals an unparalleled radiance upon waking. The neoapothecary formula combines nourishing and softening organic sesame, macadamia and jojoba oils, delivering a uniquely comfortable serum-in-oil texture, fragrance-free for optimum tolerance.
Key Insights
Benefits
6
Anti-Acne
Anti-Aging
Evens Skin Tone
Hydration
Pore Minimizer
Soothing
Active Ingredients
1
Retinoids
Risks
1
Pregnancy Unsafe
Full Ingredients
14 total
SESAMUM INDICUM SEED OIL
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
OLUS OIL
COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE
DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE
ISOAMYL LAURATE
ADANSONIA DIGITATA SEED OIL
MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA SEED OIL
GLYCINE SOJA OIL
SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL
RETINOL
Retinoids
HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL
ASTER TRIPOLIUM EXTRACT
TOCOPHEROL
About Retinol Renewing Night Serum
Overview
Retinol Renewing Night Serum is a rich serum from Payot. The formula is built mainly around hydration. The ingredient list runs to 14 ingredients, each broken down in full below.
Texture and finish
By its ingredient list the formula reads as rich: occlusives and butters sit high enough in the order to give it real weight on skin. The oils in it point to a dewy, emollient finish rather than a matte one. Hydration is handled by Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate and Isoamyl Laurate, humectants that pull water into the upper layers of skin rather than sealing it there.
What the formula does
Hydration: High. Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin, and here that comes from Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Isoamyl Laurate and Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil.
Who it suits
On richness alone it suits Dry and Combination (dry) skin best, and is the least natural fit for Combination (oily) and Oily skin. Nothing in the list is flagged as a common irritant, which is a reasonable starting point for reactive skin — though a patch test is still the only way to know.
What it does not target
The formula contributes little or nothing on barrier support, antioxidant protection, oil control and brightening and tone. That is not a fault — most products are not meant to do everything — but if one of those is your priority, this is not the product that will address it.
What is not in it
Reading the full list, the formula is fragrance-free, essential-oil-free, no drying alcohol, paraben-free, silicone-free and microplastic-free. Those claims come from the ingredient list itself, not from the packaging.
Where it fits in a routine
It can be used morning and evening. In a routine it goes after toner, before moisturiser. Apply to clean, dry skin and give it a minute to absorb before the next layer. Introduce one new treatment at a time so you can identify what is working.
This summary is generated from the product's ingredient list. It is not a review, it is not the brand's own marketing claims, and it does not replace advice from a dermatologist.
Pros and cons
Drawn purely from the ingredient list
Pros
- No fragrance or declared allergens
- No essential oils
- No drying alcohol
- Silicone-free
- No microplastics
- Strong humectant content for hydration
- No common irritants flagged in the list
Things to know
- 6 ingredients could feed malassezia (fungal acne)
- Contains ingredients usually flagged for review during pregnancy
Which skin types it suits
Scored on how rich or light the formula reads from its INCI order.
Suitable for
- Dry skin
- Combination (dry) skin
May suit
- Balanced skin
Less suitable for
- Combination (oily) skin
- Oily skin
Sensitive skin
No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.
Skin concerns
Based on the curated benefits documented for this product's ingredients.
Helps with
-
Hydration 6 ingredients
Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy
-
Anti-Aging 5 ingredients
Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
-
Soothing 2 ingredients
Calms redness, irritation, and inflammation for sensitive skin
-
Anti-Acne 1 ingredient
Targets breakouts by reducing bacteria and unclogging pores
-
Evens Skin Tone 1 ingredient
Brightens and balances complexion for a more uniform appearance
-
Pore Minimizer 1 ingredient
Tightens and refines the look of enlarged pores
Does not target
Blackhead Reducing
Dark Spot Fading
Oil Control
Smooths Bumpy Skin
None of the ingredients in this formula are associated with these benefits. This is not unusual, as most products are designed to target a limited number of concerns.
Key ingredients
The actives, UV filters and benefit-carrying ingredients in this formula, in the order they are listed.
5th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Carbonic Acid, Dicaprylyl Ester
Hydration
6th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Isopentyl laurate
Hydration
7th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil is the oil expressd from the seeds of the Monkey Bread Tree or the Baobab, Adansonia digitata L., Bombacaceae
Anti-Aging
Hydration
Soothing
9th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Glycine Soja Oil is the oil obtained from the soybean, Glycine soja, Leguminosae, by extraction or expression. It consists esentially of triglycerides of oleic, linoleic and saturated acids
Anti-Aging
Hydration
Retinol
Retinoids
11th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.
Retinol; vitamin A
Anti-Aging
Anti-Acne
Pore Minimizer
12th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds of the Sunflower, Helianthus annuus L., Compositae
Anti-Aging
Hydration
14th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8-tetramethyl-2-(4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl)-2H-benzopyran-6-ol; .alpha.-tocopherol; Vitamin E
Anti-Aging
Evens Skin Tone
Soothing
Formula analysis
Each axis is scored from the ingredients present and how high up the list they sit.
Hydration
High
Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin
Barrier support
None
Lipids and repair signals that support skin barrier integrity
Antioxidant support
None
Ingredients that mop up free radicals from UV and pollution
Oil control
None
Ingredients that moderate sebum or absorb shine
Brightening
None
Ingredients that act on uneven tone and post-inflammatory marks
Soothing
Low
Ingredients aimed at visible redness and reactivity
Cell renewal
None
Retinoids, acids and enzymes that speed surface turnover
Firmness signalling
None
Peptides and growth factors that signal for collagen support
Active and supporting ingredients
"Active" here means an ingredient carrying a recorded active type or a recognised UV filter.
Active ingredients (1)
- Retinol · 1–3%
Supporting ingredients (13)
Solvents, emollients, texture agents and preservatives — the formula that carries the actives.
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Caprylic/capric Triglyceride
Olus Oil
Coco-caprylate/caprate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Isoamyl Laurate
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Glycine Soja Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Aster Tripolium Extract
Tocopherol
What is and is not in it
Read from the full ingredient list. A brand's own claim may differ.
Free from
- Fragrance-free
- Essential-oil-free
- No drying alcohol
- Paraben-free
- Silicone-free
- Microplastic-free
- Sulfate-free
- Dye-free
- No animal-derived ingredients
Contains
-
Facial oils
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
What to layer it with
Judged by the same curated rules our routine checker uses. It reads the ingredients, not the label.
Compatible with
- Retinoids (retinol, retinal)
- Copper peptides
- Bakuchiol
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic acid
- Ceramides
- Signal peptides
- Panthenol
- Sunscreen
Use with caution
-
AHAs (glycolic, lactic)
Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.
-
BHA (salicylic acid)
Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.
-
PHAs (gluconolactone)
Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.
-
Benzoyl peroxide
Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.
-
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
-
Azelaic acid
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
Where it fits in a routine
Morning
Evening
- Cleanse
- Toning
- Treat
- Moisturise
- Protect
This product is the "Treat" step.
- Apply to clean, dry skin and give it a minute to absorb before the next layer.
- Introduce one new treatment at a time so you can identify what is working.
Safety and suitability
Flags to check, not verdicts. None of this is medical advice — if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or treating a skin condition, ask a doctor.
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding
- Contains Retinol, usually reviewed with a doctor during pregnancy.
- Fungal acne (malassezia)
- 6 ingredients could feed malassezia: Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Isoamyl Laurate, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil. That is about the yeast's food supply, not a prediction that you will break out.
- Sensitive and reactive skin
- No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.
- Recorded ingredient risks
- Pregnancy Unsafe
Ingredients by function
Most ingredients do more than one job, so these counts add up to more than the 14 ingredients on the label.
10
Emollient
Softens and smooths by filling gaps between skin cells
1
Active
Changes how skin behaves rather than how it feels
1
Antioxidant
Neutralises free radicals from UV and pollution
1
Occlusive
Forms a film that slows water loss
1
Plant extract
Botanical material, usually for antioxidants or scent
Ingredient breakdown
Every ingredient on the label, in order, with what it does and roughly how much of it is likely to be there.
- Estimated level
- 10–40%
- Confidence
- Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
- Roles
- Emollient
1st on the list, which puts it at an estimated 10–40% of the formula.
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil is the oil obtained from the seed of the Sesame, Sesamum indicum L., Pedaliaceae
- Estimated level
- 5–20%
- Confidence
- Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Decanoic acid, ester with 1,2,3-propanetriol octanoate; Glycerides, mixed decanoyl and octanoyl
Hydration
5 scientific references
- International Journal of Toxicology, September 2020, pages 34-35
- Periodica Polytechnica Chemical Engineering, 2014, pages 43-48
- International Journal of Toxicology, January 2003, pages 4-5
- Food and Chemical Toxicology, January 2000, pages 79-98
- Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, August 1985, pages 303-311
- Estimated level
- 5–20%
- Confidence
- Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
- Roles
- Emollient
3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Olus Oil is an expressed oil of vegetable origin consisting primarily of triglycerides of fatty acids
- Estimated level
- 2–10%
- Confidence
- Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
- Roles
- Emollient
4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Alcohols, coco, mixed esters with octanoic and decanoic acids
- Estimated level
- 2–10%
- Confidence
- Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
- Roles
- Emollient
5th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Carbonic Acid, Dicaprylyl Ester
Hydration
5 scientific references
- OCL, April 2018, pages 1-10
- Journal of Surfactants and Detergents, July 2017, pages 1, 337–1, 349
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review, December 2016, pages 1-50
- https://wwwcir-safetyorg/sites/default/files/dialkyl%20carbonatespdf
- https://wwwulprospectorcom/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/75/204256/Cetiol-CC
- Estimated level
- 2–10%
- Confidence
- Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
- Roles
- Emollient
6th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Isopentyl laurate
Hydration
2 scientific references
- International Journal of Toxicology, September 2015, pages 5S-69S
- Cossma, April 2015, pages 12-15
- Estimated level
- 1–5%
- Confidence
- Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
- Roles
- Emollient
7th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil is the oil expressd from the seeds of the Monkey Bread Tree or the Baobab, Adansonia digitata L., Bombacaceae
Anti-Aging
Hydration
Soothing
- Estimated level
- 1–5%
- Confidence
- Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
- Roles
- Emollient
8th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil is the fixed oil obtained from the nuts of the Bushnut, Macadamia ternifolia, Proteaceae. It consists primarily of the glycerides of the fatty acids
- Estimated level
- 1–5%
- Confidence
- Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
- Roles
- Emollient
9th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Glycine Soja Oil is the oil obtained from the soybean, Glycine soja, Leguminosae, by extraction or expression. It consists esentially of triglycerides of oleic, linoleic and saturated acids
Anti-Aging
Hydration
8 scientific references
- Phytotherapy Research, March 2020, pages 435-437
- AAPS PharmSciTech, October 2018, pages 3, 029-3, 039
- The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, February 2018, pages 28-37
- International Journal of Molecular Sciences, December 2017, ePublication
- Molecules, Volume 22, September 2017, ePublication
- Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, September 2013, pages s123-s127
- Journal of Medicinal Food, January 2012, pages 89-95
- International Journal of Dermatology, April 2011, pages 470-477
- Estimated level
- 1–5%
- Confidence
- Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
- Roles
- Emollient
10th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil is the fixed oil expressed or extracted from seeds of the desert shrub, Jojoba, Simmondsia chinensis, Buxaceae
- Estimated level
- 1–3%
- Confidence
- Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
- Roles
- Active
11th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.
Retinol; vitamin A
Anti-Aging
Anti-Acne
Pore Minimizer
Pregnancy Unsafe
10 scientific references
- Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, September 2019, pages 918-923; and March 2015, pages 271-280
- Experimental Dermatology, August 2019, pages 906-913
- Archives of Dermatological Research, May 2017, pages 275-283
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science, February 2017, pages 56-65
- Dermatology, May 2014, pages 314-325
- Dermatoendocrinology, July 2012, issue 3, pages 308-319
- Toxicological Research, March 2010, pages 61-66
- Archives of Dermatology, May 2007, pages 606-612
- The Journal of Pathology, January 2007, issue 2, pages 241-251
- Clinical Interventions in Aging, December 2006, pages 327-348
- Estimated level
- 1–3%
- Confidence
- Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
- Roles
- Emollient
12th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds of the Sunflower, Helianthus annuus L., Compositae
Anti-Aging
Hydration
4 scientific references
- Pediatric Dermatology, August 2018, ePublication; and January-February 2013, pages 42-50
- Chemicke Zvesti, May 2018, pages 2, 607-2, 615
- International Journal of Molecular Sciences, December 2017, ePublication
- Dermatology, October 2014, pages 230-239
- Estimated level
- 1–3%
- Confidence
- Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
- Roles
- Occlusive, Plant extract
13th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.
Aster Tripolium Extract is the extract of the whole plant, Aster tripolium L., Asteraceae
- Estimated level
- under 1%
- Confidence
- Moderate — listed below the 1% line
- Roles
- Antioxidant
14th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8-tetramethyl-2-(4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl)-2H-benzopyran-6-ol; .alpha.-tocopherol; Vitamin E
Anti-Aging
Evens Skin Tone
Soothing
4 scientific references
- Journal or Agricultural and Food Chemistry, June 2010, pages 7013-7020
- Journal of Investigative Dermatology, November 2001, pages 1212-1217
- Canadian Family Physician, July 2006, pages 855-856
- Dermatologic Surgery, April 1999, pages 311-315
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Frequently asked questions
What ingredients are in Retinol Renewing Night Serum?
SESAMUM INDICUM SEED OIL, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, OLUS OIL, COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE, DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE, ISOAMYL LAURATE, ADANSONIA DIGITATA SEED OIL, MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA SEED OIL, GLYCINE SOJA OIL, SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL, RETINOL, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL, ASTER TRIPOLIUM EXTRACT, TOCOPHEROL.
What are the active ingredients in Retinol Renewing Night Serum?
RETINOL.
How do I use Retinol Renewing Night Serum?
In the evening, apply to the face and neck after thorough cleansing, for 30 consecutive nights.
What skin types is Retinol Renewing Night Serum good for?
Judged on how rich the formula reads from its ingredient list, it suits Dry, Combination (dry) skin best. It is the least natural fit for Combination (oily), Oily skin.
Is Retinol Renewing Night Serum good for sensitive skin?
No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.
Is Retinol Renewing Night Serum fungal acne safe?
6 ingredients could feed malassezia: Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Isoamyl Laurate, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil. That describes the yeast's food supply, not a prediction that they will cause a breakout.
Can I use Retinol Renewing Night Serum while pregnant?
It contains Retinol, which are usually reviewed with a doctor during pregnancy. Ask your doctor or midwife before using it.
Is Retinol Renewing Night Serum fragrance free?
Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is fragrance-free.
Does Retinol Renewing Night Serum contain alcohol?
No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is no drying alcohol.
Is Retinol Renewing Night Serum silicone free?
Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is silicone-free.
Does Retinol Renewing Night Serum contain essential oils?
No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is essential-oil-free.
Is Retinol Renewing Night Serum paraben free?
Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is paraben-free.
What can I layer with Retinol Renewing Night Serum?
It layers well with Retinoids (retinol, retinal), Copper peptides, Bakuchiol, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid, Ceramides. Take more care combining it with AHAs (glycolic, lactic), BHA (salicylic acid), PHAs (gluconolactone), Benzoyl peroxide, Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Azelaic acid — use them in separate routines or on alternate days.
When should I apply Retinol Renewing Night Serum?
Use it morning and evening, after toner, before moisturiser.
How many ingredients does Retinol Renewing Night Serum have?
It lists 14 ingredients, of which 1 are recorded as actives.
Who makes Retinol Renewing Night Serum?
Payot.
Brand
Payot