2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
1,3-dihydroxypropane
Payot
Renewing Peeling Serum
face serum
Payot
face serum
Added Last edited
Fit by skin type
General, ingredient-based — not your personalized match.
See how this fits your skin
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Take the skin testThe renewing peeling serum for blemish-prone skin. Designed for combination to oily skin facing imperfections, this serum smooths and evens out the skin texture. Meadowsweet extract, recognised for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, joins probiotics that help rebalance the microbiome to prevent the appearance of imperfections. Its expert blend of glycolic acid, lactic acid (AHA) and azelaic acid delivers a renewing action that visibly reduces blemishes, enlarged pores and residual marks.
Renewing Peeling Serum is a watery-light serum from Payot. The formula is built mainly around hydration. The ingredient list runs to 20 ingredients, each broken down in full below.
By its ingredient list the formula reads as very light — essentially a water-and-humectant base with little emollient weight. With almost no emollient load it should absorb quickly and finish close to matte. Hydration is handled by Propanediol, Methylpropanediol and Butylene Glycol, humectants that pull water into the upper layers of skin rather than sealing it there.
Hydration: High. Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin, and here that comes from Propanediol, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol and Lactic Acid.
Brightening: Moderate. Ingredients that act on uneven tone and post-inflammatory marks, and here that comes from Azelaic Acid, Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid.
Cell renewal: Moderate. Retinoids, acids and enzymes that speed surface turnover, and here that comes from Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and Azelaic Acid.
On richness alone it suits Combination (oily) and Oily skin best, and is the least natural fit for Dry and Combination (dry) skin. Nothing in the list is flagged as a common irritant, which is a reasonable starting point for reactive skin — though a patch test is still the only way to know.
The formula contributes little or nothing on barrier support, antioxidant protection, oil control and firmness signalling. That is not a fault — most products are not meant to do everything — but if one of those is your priority, this is not the product that will address it.
Reading the full list, the formula is essential-oil-free, no drying alcohol, paraben-free, silicone-free, microplastic-free and sulfate-free. Those claims come from the ingredient list itself, not from the packaging. It does contain fragrance, worth knowing if your skin reacts to any of them.
It can be used morning and evening. In a routine it goes after toner, before moisturiser. Apply to clean, dry skin and give it a minute to absorb before the next layer. Introduce one new treatment at a time so you can identify what is working.
This summary is generated from the product's ingredient list. It is not a review, it is not the brand's own marketing claims, and it does not replace advice from a dermatologist.
Drawn purely from the ingredient list
Scored on how rich or light the formula reads from its INCI order.
No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.
Based on the curated benefits documented for this product's ingredients.
Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy
Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Brightens and balances complexion for a more uniform appearance
Refines texture by gently exfoliating rough, uneven patches
Calms redness, irritation, and inflammation for sensitive skin
Targets breakouts by reducing bacteria and unclogging pores
Fades hyperpigmentation and evens out dark spots over time
Regulates sebum production to reduce shine and greasiness
None of the ingredients in this formula are associated with these benefits. This is not unusual, as most products are designed to target a limited number of concerns.
The actives, UV filters and benefit-carrying ingredients in this formula, in the order they are listed.
2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
1,3-dihydroxypropane
3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
2-Methyl-1,3-propanediol
4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Acetic acid, hydroxy-
6th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Propanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-
7th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Butane-1,3-diol (CAS No. 107-88-0/ EC No. 203-529-7) (R)-(-)-butane-1,3-diol” (CAS No. 6290-03-5/ EC No. 228-532-0)
10th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Nonanedioic acid
11th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
L-Arginine
12th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Spiraea Ulmaria Extract is an extract of the Drop Wort, Spiraea ulmaria L., Rosaceae
13th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a lysate of the product obtained by fermentation of Lactobacillus.
Each axis is scored from the ingredients present and how high up the list they sit.
Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin
Lipids and repair signals that support skin barrier integrity
Ingredients that mop up free radicals from UV and pollution
Ingredients that moderate sebum or absorb shine
Ingredients that act on uneven tone and post-inflammatory marks
Ingredients aimed at visible redness and reactivity
Retinoids, acids and enzymes that speed surface turnover
Peptides and growth factors that signal for collagen support
"Active" here means an ingredient carrying a recorded active type or a recognised UV filter.
Solvents, emollients, texture agents and preservatives — the formula that carries the actives.
Read from the full ingredient list. A brand's own claim may differ.
Parfum
CI 19140, CI 42090
Judged by the same curated rules our routine checker uses. It reads the ingredients, not the label.
Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
This product is the "Treat" step.
Flags to check, not verdicts. None of this is medical advice — if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or treating a skin condition, ask a doctor.
Most ingredients do more than one job, so these counts add up to more than the 20 ingredients on the label.
Dissolves and carries everything else
Sets the acidity the formula needs to work
Changes how the product smells or looks
Draws water into the upper layers of skin
Keeps the product free of microbial growth
Sets the thickness, spread and stability of the formula
Changes how skin behaves rather than how it feels
Lifts oil and dirt, or holds oil and water together
Botanical material, usually for antioxidants or scent
Every ingredient on the label, in order, with what it does and roughly how much of it is likely to be there.
1st on the list, which puts it at an estimated 30–80% of the formula.
Water
2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
1,3-dihydroxypropane
3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
2-Methyl-1,3-propanediol
4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Acetic acid, hydroxy-
5th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sodium hydroxide
6th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Propanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-
7th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Butane-1,3-diol (CAS No. 107-88-0/ EC No. 203-529-7) (R)-(-)-butane-1,3-diol” (CAS No. 6290-03-5/ EC No. 228-532-0)
8th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
2-(2-Ethoxyethoxy)ethanol; Carbitol; Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether; DEGEE
9th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sorbitan, monododecanoate, poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) derivs.
10th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Nonanedioic acid
11th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
L-Arginine
12th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Spiraea Ulmaria Extract is an extract of the Drop Wort, Spiraea ulmaria L., Rosaceae
13th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a lysate of the product obtained by fermentation of Lactobacillus.
14th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Parfum is a term for ingredient labelling used to identify that a product contains a material or a combination of materials normally added to a cosmetic to produce or to mask a particular odour. According to Article 19 of the Cosmetics Regulation, 'Perfume and aromatic compositions and their raw materials shall be referred to by the terms ‘parfum’ or ‘aroma’. '
15th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
1,2-Propanediol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-
16th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sodium benzoate
17th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Xanthan gum
18th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Potassium (E,E)-hexa-2,4-dienoate
19th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Trisodium 5-hydroxy-1-(4-sulphophenyl)-4-(4-sulphophenylazo)pyrazole-3-carboxylate
20th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Dihydrogen (ethyl)[4-[4-[ethyl(3-sulphonatobenzyl)]amino]-2'-sulphonatobenzhydrylidene]cyclohexa-2,5-dien-1-ylidene](3-sulphonatobenzyl)ammonium, disodium salt
Products in the same category that share this formula's distinguishing ingredients.
Medicube
Shares 6 key ingredients with Renewing Peeling Serum: Methylpropanediol, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid
BE THE SKIN
Shares 4 key ingredients with Renewing Peeling Serum: Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Arginine, Glycolic Acid
NEOGEN
Shares 4 key ingredients with Renewing Peeling Serum: Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Arginine, Glycolic Acid
Arencia
Shares 4 key ingredients with Renewing Peeling Serum: Propanediol, Arginine, Glycolic Acid, Butylene Glycol
innisfree
Shares 4 key ingredients with Renewing Peeling Serum: Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactic Acid
innisfree
Shares 4 key ingredients with Renewing Peeling Serum: Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactic Acid
AQUA, PROPANEDIOL, METHYLPROPANEDIOL, GLYCOLIC ACID, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, LACTIC ACID, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, ETHOXYDIGLYCOL, POLYSORBATE 20, AZELAIC ACID, ARGININE, SPIRAEA ULMARIA EXTRACT, LACTOBACILLUS FERMENT LYSATE, PARFUM, CHLORPHENESIN, SODIUM BENZOATE, XANTHAN GUM, POTASSIUM SORBATE, CI 19140, CI 42090.
GLYCOLIC ACID, LACTIC ACID.
In the evening only, on cleansed skin, before your usual cream. Apply sunscreen during the day to protect your skin.
Judged on how rich the formula reads from its ingredient list, it suits Combination (oily), Oily skin best. It is the least natural fit for Dry, Combination (dry) skin.
No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.
2 ingredients could feed malassezia: Polysorbate 20, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate. That describes the yeast's food supply, not a prediction that they will cause a breakout.
Nothing in this formula is on the standard pregnancy-caution list. That is not medical clearance — check anything you use daily with your doctor or midwife.
No — it contains Parfum.
No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is no drying alcohol.
Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is silicone-free.
No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is essential-oil-free.
Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is paraben-free.
It layers well with Azelaic acid, Copper peptides, Bakuchiol, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid, Ceramides. Take more care combining it with Retinoids (retinol, retinal), Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), AHAs (glycolic, lactic), BHA (salicylic acid), PHAs (gluconolactone), Benzoyl peroxide — use them in separate routines or on alternate days.
Use it morning and evening, after toner, before moisturiser.
It lists 20 ingredients, of which 2 are recorded as actives.
Payot.
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