Payot Renewing Peeling Serum

Payot

Renewing Peeling Serum

face serum

Added Last edited

Fit by skin type

General, ingredient-based — not your personalized match.

Dry
43%
Combination (dry)
43%
Balanced
73%
Combination (oily)
97%
Oily
97%

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20
Ingredients
8
Benefits
1
Actives
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The renewing peeling serum for blemish-prone skin. Designed for combination to oily skin facing imperfections, this serum smooths and evens out the skin texture. Meadowsweet extract, recognised for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, joins probiotics that help rebalance the microbiome to prevent the appearance of imperfections. Its expert blend of glycolic acid, lactic acid (AHA) and azelaic acid delivers a renewing action that visibly reduces blemishes, enlarged pores and residual marks.

Key Insights

Benefits

8
Anti-Acne
Anti-Aging
Dark Spot Fading
Evens Skin Tone
Hydration
Oil Control
Smooths Bumpy Skin
Soothing

Active Ingredients

1
AHA

About Renewing Peeling Serum

Overview

Renewing Peeling Serum is a watery-light serum from Payot. The formula is built mainly around hydration. The ingredient list runs to 20 ingredients, each broken down in full below.

Texture and finish

By its ingredient list the formula reads as very light — essentially a water-and-humectant base with little emollient weight. With almost no emollient load it should absorb quickly and finish close to matte. Hydration is handled by Propanediol, Methylpropanediol and Butylene Glycol, humectants that pull water into the upper layers of skin rather than sealing it there.

What the formula does

Hydration: High. Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin, and here that comes from Propanediol, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol and Lactic Acid.

Brightening: Moderate. Ingredients that act on uneven tone and post-inflammatory marks, and here that comes from Azelaic Acid, Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid.

Cell renewal: Moderate. Retinoids, acids and enzymes that speed surface turnover, and here that comes from Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and Azelaic Acid.

Who it suits

On richness alone it suits Combination (oily) and Oily skin best, and is the least natural fit for Dry and Combination (dry) skin. Nothing in the list is flagged as a common irritant, which is a reasonable starting point for reactive skin — though a patch test is still the only way to know.

What it does not target

The formula contributes little or nothing on barrier support, antioxidant protection, oil control and firmness signalling. That is not a fault — most products are not meant to do everything — but if one of those is your priority, this is not the product that will address it.

What is not in it

Reading the full list, the formula is essential-oil-free, no drying alcohol, paraben-free, silicone-free, microplastic-free and sulfate-free. Those claims come from the ingredient list itself, not from the packaging. It does contain fragrance, worth knowing if your skin reacts to any of them.

Where it fits in a routine

It can be used morning and evening. In a routine it goes after toner, before moisturiser. Apply to clean, dry skin and give it a minute to absorb before the next layer. Introduce one new treatment at a time so you can identify what is working.

This summary is generated from the product's ingredient list. It is not a review, it is not the brand's own marketing claims, and it does not replace advice from a dermatologist.

Pros and cons

Drawn purely from the ingredient list

Pros

  • No essential oils
  • No drying alcohol
  • Silicone-free
  • No microplastics
  • Strong humectant content for hydration
  • No common irritants flagged in the list

Things to know

  • Contains fragrance or declared fragrance allergens
  • 2 ingredients could feed malassezia (fungal acne)

Which skin types it suits

Scored on how rich or light the formula reads from its INCI order.

Suitable for

  • Combination (oily) skin
  • Oily skin

May suit

  • Balanced skin

Less suitable for

  • Dry skin
  • Combination (dry) skin

Sensitive skin

No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.

Skin concerns

Based on the curated benefits documented for this product's ingredients.

Helps with

  • Hydration 5 ingredients

    Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy

  • Anti-Aging 4 ingredients

    Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

  • Evens Skin Tone 2 ingredients

    Brightens and balances complexion for a more uniform appearance

  • Smooths Bumpy Skin 2 ingredients

    Refines texture by gently exfoliating rough, uneven patches

  • Soothing 2 ingredients

    Calms redness, irritation, and inflammation for sensitive skin

  • Anti-Acne 1 ingredient

    Targets breakouts by reducing bacteria and unclogging pores

  • Dark Spot Fading 1 ingredient

    Fades hyperpigmentation and evens out dark spots over time

  • Oil Control 1 ingredient

    Regulates sebum production to reduce shine and greasiness

Does not target

Blackhead Reducing Pore Minimizer

None of the ingredients in this formula are associated with these benefits. This is not unusual, as most products are designed to target a limited number of concerns.

Key ingredients

The actives, UV filters and benefit-carrying ingredients in this formula, in the order they are listed.

2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.

1,3-dihydroxypropane

Hydration

3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.

2-Methyl-1,3-propanediol

Hydration

4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.

Acetic acid, hydroxy-

Anti-Aging Evens Skin Tone Smooths Bumpy Skin

6th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Propanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-

Anti-Aging Evens Skin Tone Hydration

7th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Butane-1,3-diol (CAS No. 107-88-0/ EC No. 203-529-7) (R)-(-)-butane-1,3-diol” (CAS No. 6290-03-5/ EC No. 228-532-0)

Hydration

10th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Nonanedioic acid

Anti-Acne Dark Spot Fading Smooths Bumpy Skin

11th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

L-Arginine

Hydration Anti-Aging

12th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract is an extract of the Drop Wort, Spiraea ulmaria L., Rosaceae

Anti-Aging Soothing Oil Control

13th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a lysate of the product obtained by fermentation of Lactobacillus.

Soothing

Formula analysis

Each axis is scored from the ingredients present and how high up the list they sit.

Hydration High

Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin

Barrier support None

Lipids and repair signals that support skin barrier integrity

Antioxidant support None

Ingredients that mop up free radicals from UV and pollution

Oil control None

Ingredients that moderate sebum or absorb shine

Brightening Moderate

Ingredients that act on uneven tone and post-inflammatory marks

Soothing Low

Ingredients aimed at visible redness and reactivity

Cell renewal Moderate

Retinoids, acids and enzymes that speed surface turnover

Firmness signalling None

Peptides and growth factors that signal for collagen support

Active and supporting ingredients

"Active" here means an ingredient carrying a recorded active type or a recognised UV filter.

Active ingredients (2)

Supporting ingredients (18)

Solvents, emollients, texture agents and preservatives — the formula that carries the actives.

Aqua Propanediol Methylpropanediol Sodium Hydroxide Butylene Glycol Ethoxydiglycol Polysorbate 20 Azelaic Acid Arginine Spiraea Ulmaria Extract Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Parfum Chlorphenesin Sodium Benzoate Xanthan Gum Potassium Sorbate CI 19140 CI 42090

What is and is not in it

Read from the full ingredient list. A brand's own claim may differ.

Free from

  • Essential-oil-free
  • No drying alcohol
  • Paraben-free
  • Silicone-free
  • Microplastic-free
  • Sulfate-free
  • Oil-free
  • No animal-derived ingredients

Contains

  • Fragrance

    Parfum

  • Added colour

    CI 19140, CI 42090

What to layer it with

Judged by the same curated rules our routine checker uses. It reads the ingredients, not the label.

Compatible with

  • Azelaic acid
  • Copper peptides
  • Bakuchiol
  • Niacinamide
  • Hyaluronic acid
  • Ceramides
  • Signal peptides
  • Panthenol
  • Sunscreen

Use with caution

  • Retinoids (retinol, retinal)

    Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.

  • Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

    Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.

  • AHAs (glycolic, lactic)

    Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.

  • BHA (salicylic acid)

    Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.

  • PHAs (gluconolactone)

    Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.

  • Benzoyl peroxide

    Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.

Where it fits in a routine

Morning Evening
  1. Cleanse
  2. Toning
  3. Treat
  4. Moisturise
  5. Protect

This product is the "Treat" step.

  • Apply to clean, dry skin and give it a minute to absorb before the next layer.
  • Introduce one new treatment at a time so you can identify what is working.

Safety and suitability

Flags to check, not verdicts. None of this is medical advice — if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or treating a skin condition, ask a doctor.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding
Nothing in this formula is on the standard pregnancy-caution list. That is not clearance — ask your doctor about anything you use daily.
Fungal acne (malassezia)
2 ingredients could feed malassezia: Polysorbate 20, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate. That is about the yeast's food supply, not a prediction that you will break out.
Sensitive and reactive skin
No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.

Ingredients by function

Most ingredients do more than one job, so these counts add up to more than the 20 ingredients on the label.

5
Solvent

Dissolves and carries everything else

4
pH adjuster

Sets the acidity the formula needs to work

3
Fragrance / colour

Changes how the product smells or looks

3
Humectant

Draws water into the upper layers of skin

3
Preservative

Keeps the product free of microbial growth

3
Texture agent

Sets the thickness, spread and stability of the formula

2
Active

Changes how skin behaves rather than how it feels

2
Surfactant

Lifts oil and dirt, or holds oil and water together

1
Plant extract

Botanical material, usually for antioxidants or scent

Ingredient breakdown

Every ingredient on the label, in order, with what it does and roughly how much of it is likely to be there.

1 Aqua Solvent
Estimated level
30–80%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Solvent

1st on the list, which puts it at an estimated 30–80% of the formula.

Water

2 Propanediol Texture agent
Estimated level
5–20%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Texture agent, Solvent

2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.

1,3-dihydroxypropane

Hydration
4 scientific references
  • PubChem Compound Summary, April 2021, ePublication
  • SpecialChem, Accessed April 2021, ePublication
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review, June 2018, pages 1-73
  • Cosmetics & Toiletries, May 2013, pages 81-86
Estimated level
5–20%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Solvent

3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.

2-Methyl-1,3-propanediol

Hydration
3 scientific references
  • PubChem, Accessed April 2021, ePublication
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review, June 2018, pages 1-73
  • Contact Dermatitis, September 2017, pages 159-162
Estimated level
2–10%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Active, pH adjuster

4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.

Acetic acid, hydroxy-

Anti-Aging Evens Skin Tone Smooths Bumpy Skin
5 scientific references
  • Molecules, April 2018, 23(4), ePublication
  • DNA Cell Biology, February 2017, pages 177-187
  • Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, October 2015, pages 21-26
  • BioMed Research International, 2015, Volume 2015
  • Dermatology Research and Practice, February 2015, Volume 2015
5 Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
pH adjuster

5th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Sodium hydroxide

6 Lactic Acid Humectant
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Humectant, Active, pH adjuster

6th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Propanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-

Anti-Aging Evens Skin Tone Hydration
9 scientific references
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2020, pages 116-126
  • International Journal of Dermatology, March 2019, ePublication
  • Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, October 2018, pages 491-497
  • International Journal of Dermatology, September 2018, ePublication
  • Molecules, April 2018, ePublication
  • Journal of the American Dental Association, April 2016, pages 255-263
  • Cutis, January 2016, pages E9-E11
  • Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, November 2010, pages 135-142
  • The Journal of Dermatology, January 2006, pages 16-22
7 Butylene Glycol Humectant
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Humectant, Texture agent, Solvent

7th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Butane-1,3-diol (CAS No. 107-88-0/ EC No. 203-529-7) (R)-(-)-butane-1,3-diol” (CAS No. 6290-03-5/ EC No. 228-532-0)

Hydration
5 scientific references
  • CosmeticsInfoorg, Accessed March 2021, ePublication
  • US Food and Drug Administration Code of Federal Regulations</em>, Accessed March 2021, ePublication
  • International Journal of Toxicology, May 2011, pages 5S-16S
  • Skin Research and Technology, November 2007, pages 417-24
  • Journal of the American College of Toxicology, September 1985, pages 223-248
8 Ethoxydiglycol Humectant
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Humectant, Solvent

8th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

2-(2-Ethoxyethoxy)ethanol; Carbitol; Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether; DEGEE

9 Polysorbate 20 Surfactant
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Surfactant

9th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Sorbitan, monododecanoate, poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) derivs.

10 Azelaic Acid pH adjuster
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
pH adjuster

10th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Nonanedioic acid

Anti-Acne Dark Spot Fading Smooths Bumpy Skin
8 scientific references
  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2017, pages 35-42
  • The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, March 2017, pages 37-40
  • Advanced Biomedical Research, February 2017, ePublication
  • Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy, October 2016, pages 771-775
  • Skin Therapy Letter, January 2016, pages 1-7
  • Cutis, January 2016, pages E9-E11
  • Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, September 2015, pages 964-968
  • International Journal of Toxicology, August 2012, pages 1-72
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line

11th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

L-Arginine

Hydration Anti-Aging
6 scientific references
  • Biobased Surfactants (Second Edition), 2019, pages 413-445
  • Scientific Reports, February 2016, pages 1-10
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review, October 2012, pages 1-35
  • Journal of Advanced Research, July 2010, pages 169–177
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2005, page 139
  • Wound Repair and Regeneration, November-December 2003, pages 419-423
12 Spiraea Ulmaria Extract Plant extract
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Plant extract

12th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract is an extract of the Drop Wort, Spiraea ulmaria L., Rosaceae

Anti-Aging Soothing Oil Control
3 scientific references
  • Journal of Applied Research on Medicinal and Aromatic Plants, December 2017, pages 1-26
  • Journal of Ethnopharmacology, December 2016, pages 627-636 and pages 652-666
  • Phytotherapy Research, April 2013, pages 588-594
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line

13th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a lysate of the product obtained by fermentation of Lactobacillus.

Soothing
4 scientific references
  • Current Issues in Molecular Biology, January 2024, pages 513-526
  • Microorganisms, July 2023, pages 1-24
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, February 2023, pages 83-94
  • Molecules, March 2021, pages 1-11
14 Parfum Fragrance / colour
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Fragrance / colour

14th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Parfum is a term for ingredient labelling used to identify that a product contains a material or a combination of materials normally added to a cosmetic to produce or to mask a particular odour. According to Article 19 of the Cosmetics Regulation, 'Perfume and aromatic compositions and their raw materials shall be referred to by the terms ‘parfum’ or ‘aroma’. '

15 Chlorphenesin Preservative
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Preservative

15th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

1,2-Propanediol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-

16 Sodium Benzoate Preservative
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Preservative

16th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Sodium benzoate

17 Xanthan Gum Surfactant
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Surfactant, Texture agent

17th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Xanthan gum

18 Potassium Sorbate Preservative
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Preservative

18th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Potassium (E,E)-hexa-2,4-dienoate

19 CI 19140 Fragrance / colour
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Fragrance / colour

19th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Trisodium 5-hydroxy-1-(4-sulphophenyl)-4-(4-sulphophenylazo)pyrazole-3-carboxylate

20 CI 42090 Fragrance / colour
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Fragrance / colour

20th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Dihydrogen (ethyl)[4-[4-[ethyl(3-sulphonatobenzyl)]amino]-2'-sulphonatobenzhydrylidene]cyclohexa-2,5-dien-1-ylidene](3-sulphonatobenzyl)ammonium, disodium salt

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Frequently asked questions

What ingredients are in Renewing Peeling Serum?

AQUA, PROPANEDIOL, METHYLPROPANEDIOL, GLYCOLIC ACID, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, LACTIC ACID, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, ETHOXYDIGLYCOL, POLYSORBATE 20, AZELAIC ACID, ARGININE, SPIRAEA ULMARIA EXTRACT, LACTOBACILLUS FERMENT LYSATE, PARFUM, CHLORPHENESIN, SODIUM BENZOATE, XANTHAN GUM, POTASSIUM SORBATE, CI 19140, CI 42090.

What are the active ingredients in Renewing Peeling Serum?

GLYCOLIC ACID, LACTIC ACID.

How do I use Renewing Peeling Serum?

In the evening only, on cleansed skin, before your usual cream. Apply sunscreen during the day to protect your skin.

What skin types is Renewing Peeling Serum good for?

Judged on how rich the formula reads from its ingredient list, it suits Combination (oily), Oily skin best. It is the least natural fit for Dry, Combination (dry) skin.

Is Renewing Peeling Serum good for sensitive skin?

No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.

Is Renewing Peeling Serum fungal acne safe?

2 ingredients could feed malassezia: Polysorbate 20, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate. That describes the yeast's food supply, not a prediction that they will cause a breakout.

Can I use Renewing Peeling Serum while pregnant?

Nothing in this formula is on the standard pregnancy-caution list. That is not medical clearance — check anything you use daily with your doctor or midwife.

Is Renewing Peeling Serum fragrance free?

No — it contains Parfum.

Does Renewing Peeling Serum contain alcohol?

No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is no drying alcohol.

Is Renewing Peeling Serum silicone free?

Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is silicone-free.

Does Renewing Peeling Serum contain essential oils?

No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is essential-oil-free.

Is Renewing Peeling Serum paraben free?

Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is paraben-free.

What can I layer with Renewing Peeling Serum?

It layers well with Azelaic acid, Copper peptides, Bakuchiol, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid, Ceramides. Take more care combining it with Retinoids (retinol, retinal), Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), AHAs (glycolic, lactic), BHA (salicylic acid), PHAs (gluconolactone), Benzoyl peroxide — use them in separate routines or on alternate days.

When should I apply Renewing Peeling Serum?

Use it morning and evening, after toner, before moisturiser.

How many ingredients does Renewing Peeling Serum have?

It lists 20 ingredients, of which 2 are recorded as actives.

Who makes Renewing Peeling Serum?

Payot.

Brand
Payot

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