Payot Intense Peeling Mask

Payot

Intense Peeling Mask

face chemical peel

Added Last edited

Fit by skin type

General, ingredient-based — not your personalized match.

Dry
48%
Combination (dry)
48%
Balanced
78%
Combination (oily)
92%
Oily
92%

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25
Ingredients
4
Benefits
2
Actives
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The resurfacing peeling mask for suffocated skin. For skin congested by pollution and daily stress, the Intense Peeling Mask brings facialist expertise into your home. Newest addition to PAYOT's NUE range, this concentrated treatment resurfaces texture and restores luminosity from the very first application. By gently sweeping away dead skin cells, it stimulates cell renewal and refines the grain to reveal the skin's natural glow. At its core, a duo of naturally derived acids — AHAs and PHAs at a 15% concentration — works in synergy for an immediate "new skin" effect, while preserving optimal tolerance, even on the most demanding skin.

Key Insights

Benefits

4
Anti-Aging
Evens Skin Tone
Hydration
Smooths Bumpy Skin

Active Ingredients

2
AHA PHA

Risks

2
Allergen
Synthetic polymer

About Intense Peeling Mask

Overview

Intense Peeling Mask is a watery-light chemical peel from Payot. The formula is built mainly around hydration. The ingredient list runs to 25 ingredients, each broken down in full below.

Texture and finish

By its ingredient list the formula reads as very light — essentially a water-and-humectant base with little emollient weight. With almost no emollient load it should absorb quickly and finish close to matte. Hydration is handled by Glycerin, Diglycerin and Cocamidopropyl Betaine, humectants that pull water into the upper layers of skin rather than sealing it there.

What the formula does

Hydration: High. Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin, and here that comes from Glycerin, Diglycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine and Gluconolactone.

Cell renewal: Moderate. Retinoids, acids and enzymes that speed surface turnover, and here that comes from Gluconolactone, Glycolic Acid, Citric Acid and Lactic Acid.

Brightening: Moderate. Ingredients that act on uneven tone and post-inflammatory marks, and here that comes from Gluconolactone, Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid.

Who it suits

On richness alone it suits Combination (oily) and Oily skin best, and is the least natural fit for Dry and Combination (dry) skin. A few ingredients carry irritation flags, so reactive skin should patch test before using it on the whole face.

What it does not target

The formula contributes little or nothing on barrier support, antioxidant protection, oil control and soothing. That is not a fault — most products are not meant to do everything — but if one of those is your priority, this is not the product that will address it.

What is not in it

Reading the full list, the formula is no drying alcohol, paraben-free, silicone-free, microplastic-free, sulfate-free and dye-free. Those claims come from the ingredient list itself, not from the packaging. It does contain fragrance and essential oils, worth knowing if your skin reacts to any of them.

Where it fits in a routine

Use it in the evening. In a routine it goes after cleansing, before serums. Start at once or twice a week and build up only if skin stays comfortable. Wear sunscreen the next morning — fresh exfoliation raises UV sensitivity.

This summary is generated from the product's ingredient list. It is not a review, it is not the brand's own marketing claims, and it does not replace advice from a dermatologist.

Pros and cons

Drawn purely from the ingredient list

Pros

  • No drying alcohol
  • Silicone-free
  • No microplastics
  • Strong humectant content for hydration

Things to know

  • Contains fragrance or declared fragrance allergens
  • Contains essential oils, a common source of reactivity
  • One ingredient could feed malassezia (fungal acne)

Which skin types it suits

Scored on how rich or light the formula reads from its INCI order.

Suitable for

  • Combination (oily) skin
  • Oily skin

May suit

  • Balanced skin

Less suitable for

  • Dry skin
  • Combination (dry) skin

Sensitive skin

A few ingredients here carry irritation flags. Reactive skin should patch test on the jawline for a few days before using it on the whole face.

Skin concerns

Based on the curated benefits documented for this product's ingredients.

Helps with

  • Anti-Aging 6 ingredients

    Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

  • Hydration 5 ingredients

    Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy

  • Evens Skin Tone 3 ingredients

    Brightens and balances complexion for a more uniform appearance

  • Smooths Bumpy Skin 1 ingredient

    Refines texture by gently exfoliating rough, uneven patches

Does not target

Anti-Acne Blackhead Reducing Dark Spot Fading Oil Control Pore Minimizer Soothing

None of the ingredients in this formula are associated with these benefits. This is not unusual, as most products are designed to target a limited number of concerns.

Key ingredients

The actives, UV filters and benefit-carrying ingredients in this formula, in the order they are listed.

2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.

D-Glucono-1,5-lactone

Evens Skin Tone Anti-Aging Hydration

3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.

Glycerine ;Glycerol (INN); Glycerol (RIFM); Glycerolum (EP); Glycyl Alcohol; 1,2,3-Propanetriol; 1,2,3-Trihydroxypropane

Hydration Anti-Aging

4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.

Oxybispropanediol

Hydration

6th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Acetic acid, hydroxy-

Anti-Aging Evens Skin Tone Smooths Bumpy Skin

7th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Microcrystalline Cellulose is the isolated, colloidal crystalline portion of cellulose fibers.

Anti-Aging

12th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

2-Hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid

13th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Propanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-

Anti-Aging Evens Skin Tone Hydration

14th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

L-Arginine

Hydration Anti-Aging

Formula analysis

Each axis is scored from the ingredients present and how high up the list they sit.

Hydration High

Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin

Barrier support None

Lipids and repair signals that support skin barrier integrity

Antioxidant support None

Ingredients that mop up free radicals from UV and pollution

Oil control None

Ingredients that moderate sebum or absorb shine

Brightening Moderate

Ingredients that act on uneven tone and post-inflammatory marks

Soothing None

Ingredients aimed at visible redness and reactivity

Cell renewal Moderate

Retinoids, acids and enzymes that speed surface turnover

Firmness signalling None

Peptides and growth factors that signal for collagen support

Active and supporting ingredients

"Active" here means an ingredient carrying a recorded active type or a recognised UV filter.

Active ingredients (4)

Supporting ingredients (21)

Solvents, emollients, texture agents and preservatives — the formula that carries the actives.

Aqua Glycerin Diglycerin Sodium Hydroxide Microcrystalline Cellulose Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer Sodium Citrate Cocamidopropyl Betaine Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Water Arginine Parfum Xanthan Gum Chlorphenesin Cellulose Gum Sorbitan Isostearate O-cymen-5-ol Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes 1,2-hexanediol Biosaccharide Gum-4 Sodium Benzoate Potassium Sorbate

What is and is not in it

Read from the full ingredient list. A brand's own claim may differ.

Free from

  • No drying alcohol
  • Paraben-free
  • Silicone-free
  • Microplastic-free
  • Sulfate-free
  • Dye-free
  • Oil-free
  • No animal-derived ingredients

Contains

  • Fragrance

    Parfum

  • Essential oils

    Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes

What to layer it with

Judged by the same curated rules our routine checker uses. It reads the ingredients, not the label.

Compatible with

  • Azelaic acid
  • Copper peptides
  • Bakuchiol
  • Niacinamide
  • Hyaluronic acid
  • Ceramides
  • Signal peptides
  • Panthenol
  • Sunscreen

Use with caution

  • Retinoids (retinol, retinal)

    Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.

  • Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

    Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.

  • AHAs (glycolic, lactic)

    Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.

  • BHA (salicylic acid)

    Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.

  • PHAs (gluconolactone)

    Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.

  • Benzoyl peroxide

    Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.

Where it fits in a routine

Evening
  1. Cleanse
  2. Exfoliate
  3. Treat
  4. Moisturise

This product is the "Exfoliate" step.

  • Start at once or twice a week and build up only if skin stays comfortable.
  • Wear sunscreen the next morning — fresh exfoliation raises UV sensitivity.

Safety and suitability

Flags to check, not verdicts. None of this is medical advice — if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or treating a skin condition, ask a doctor.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding
Nothing in this formula is on the standard pregnancy-caution list. That is not clearance — ask your doctor about anything you use daily.
Fungal acne (malassezia)
1 ingredient could feed malassezia: Sorbitan Isostearate. That is about the yeast's food supply, not a prediction that you will break out.
Sensitive and reactive skin
A few ingredients here carry irritation flags. Reactive skin should patch test on the jawline for a few days before using it on the whole face.
Recorded ingredient risks
Allergen, Synthetic polymer

Ingredients by function

Most ingredients do more than one job, so these counts add up to more than the 25 ingredients on the label.

6
Texture agent

Sets the thickness, spread and stability of the formula

5
pH adjuster

Sets the acidity the formula needs to work

4
Active

Changes how skin behaves rather than how it feels

4
Preservative

Keeps the product free of microbial growth

3
Humectant

Draws water into the upper layers of skin

3
Chelator

Binds trace metals that would otherwise spoil the formula

3
Solvent

Dissolves and carries everything else

3
Surfactant

Lifts oil and dirt, or holds oil and water together

2
Occlusive

Forms a film that slows water loss

1
Fragrance / colour

Changes how the product smells or looks

1
Exfoliant

Loosens or dissolves dead surface cells

1
Plant extract

Botanical material, usually for antioxidants or scent

Ingredient breakdown

Every ingredient on the label, in order, with what it does and roughly how much of it is likely to be there.

1 Aqua Solvent
Estimated level
30–80%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Solvent

1st on the list, which puts it at an estimated 30–80% of the formula.

Water

Estimated level
5–20%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Active, Chelator

2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.

D-Glucono-1,5-lactone

Evens Skin Tone Anti-Aging Hydration
3 Glycerin Humectant
Estimated level
5–20%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Humectant, Occlusive, Texture agent, Solvent

3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.

Glycerine ;Glycerol (INN); Glycerol (RIFM); Glycerolum (EP); Glycyl Alcohol; 1,2,3-Propanetriol; 1,2,3-Trihydroxypropane

Hydration Anti-Aging
6 scientific references
  • Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation, March 2021, pages 223-231
  • International Journal of Toxicology, November/December 2019, Volume 38, Supplement 3, pages 6S-22S
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, August 2016, ePublication
  • British Journal of Dermatology, July 2008, pages 23-34
  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, June 2007, pages 75-82
  • Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, June 2003, pages 7, 360-7, 365
4 Diglycerin Humectant
Estimated level
2–10%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Humectant

4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.

Oxybispropanediol

Hydration
5 Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
pH adjuster

5th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Sodium hydroxide

Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Active, pH adjuster

6th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Acetic acid, hydroxy-

Anti-Aging Evens Skin Tone Smooths Bumpy Skin
5 scientific references
  • Molecules, April 2018, 23(4), ePublication
  • DNA Cell Biology, February 2017, pages 177-187
  • Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, October 2015, pages 21-26
  • BioMed Research International, 2015, Volume 2015
  • Dermatology Research and Practice, February 2015, Volume 2015
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Exfoliant, Texture agent

7th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Microcrystalline Cellulose is the isolated, colloidal crystalline portion of cellulose fibers.

Anti-Aging
3 scientific references
  • 3 Biotech, June 2021, pages 1-13
  • IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering, March 2017, pages 1-5
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review, March 2009, pages 1-49
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Texture agent

8th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a copolymer of sodium hydroxyethyl acrylate and acryloyldimethyl taurate monomers

Synthetic polymer
9 Sodium Citrate Chelator
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Chelator, pH adjuster

9th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Trisodium citrate

Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Surfactant, Texture agent

10th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

1-Propanaminium, 3-amino-N-(carboxymethyl)-N,N-dimethyl-, N-coco acyl derivs., hydroxides, inner salts

Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Plant extract

11th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Water is an aqueous solution of the steam distillate obtained from the flowers of the Bitter Orange, Citrus aurantium L. var. amara L., Rutaceae

12 Citric Acid Active
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Active, Chelator, pH adjuster

12th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

2-Hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid

13 Lactic Acid Humectant
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Humectant, Active, pH adjuster

13th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Propanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-

Anti-Aging Evens Skin Tone Hydration
9 scientific references
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2020, pages 116-126
  • International Journal of Dermatology, March 2019, ePublication
  • Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, October 2018, pages 491-497
  • International Journal of Dermatology, September 2018, ePublication
  • Molecules, April 2018, ePublication
  • Journal of the American Dental Association, April 2016, pages 255-263
  • Cutis, January 2016, pages E9-E11
  • Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, November 2010, pages 135-142
  • The Journal of Dermatology, January 2006, pages 16-22
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line

14th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

L-Arginine

Hydration Anti-Aging
6 scientific references
  • Biobased Surfactants (Second Edition), 2019, pages 413-445
  • Scientific Reports, February 2016, pages 1-10
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review, October 2012, pages 1-35
  • Journal of Advanced Research, July 2010, pages 169–177
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2005, page 139
  • Wound Repair and Regeneration, November-December 2003, pages 419-423
15 Parfum Fragrance / colour
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Fragrance / colour

15th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Parfum is a term for ingredient labelling used to identify that a product contains a material or a combination of materials normally added to a cosmetic to produce or to mask a particular odour. According to Article 19 of the Cosmetics Regulation, 'Perfume and aromatic compositions and their raw materials shall be referred to by the terms ‘parfum’ or ‘aroma’. '

16 Xanthan Gum Surfactant
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Surfactant, Texture agent

16th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Xanthan gum

17 Chlorphenesin Preservative
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Preservative

17th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

1,2-Propanediol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-

18 Cellulose Gum Occlusive
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Occlusive, Texture agent

18th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Cellulose, carboxymethyl ether, sodium salt

Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Surfactant

19th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Sorbitan, isooctadecanoate

20 O-cymen-5-ol Preservative
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Preservative

20th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

4-Isopropyl-m-cresol

Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line

21st on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Mixture of isomers: 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthyl)ethan-1-one; 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-Octahydro-2,3,5,5-tetramethyl-2-naphthyl)ethan-1-one; 1-(1,2,3,5,6,7,8,8a-Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthyl)ethan-1-one (68155-67-9); 1-(1,2,3,4,6,7,8,8a-Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthyl)ethan-1-one (68155-66-8)

Allergen
22 1,2-hexanediol Solvent
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Solvent

22nd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line

23rd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Biosaccharide Gum-4 is a fermentation gum derived from sorbitol. It is a deacetylated branched polymer consisting of L-fucose, 2-D-glucose and glucuronic acid repetitive units

24 Sodium Benzoate Preservative
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Preservative

24th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Sodium benzoate

25 Potassium Sorbate Preservative
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Preservative

25th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Potassium (E,E)-hexa-2,4-dienoate

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Frequently asked questions

What ingredients are in Intense Peeling Mask?

AQUA, GLUCONOLACTONE, GLYCERIN, DIGLYCERIN, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, GLYCOLIC ACID, MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE, HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER, SODIUM CITRATE, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE, CITRUS AURANTIUM AMARA FLOWER WATER, CITRIC ACID, LACTIC ACID, ARGININE, PARFUM, XANTHAN GUM, CHLORPHENESIN, CELLULOSE GUM, SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, O-CYMEN-5-OL, TETRAMETHYL ACETYLOCTAHYDRONAPHTHALENES, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-4, SODIUM BENZOATE, POTASSIUM SORBATE.

What are the active ingredients in Intense Peeling Mask?

GLUCONOLACTONE, GLYCOLIC ACID, CITRIC ACID, LACTIC ACID.

How do I use Intense Peeling Mask?

Once or twice a week, in the evening, on clean and dry skin.

What skin types is Intense Peeling Mask good for?

Judged on how rich the formula reads from its ingredient list, it suits Combination (oily), Oily skin best. It is the least natural fit for Dry, Combination (dry) skin.

Is Intense Peeling Mask good for sensitive skin?

Some ingredients here carry irritation flags, so sensitive skin should patch test on the jawline for a few days before applying it to the whole face.

Is Intense Peeling Mask fungal acne safe?

One ingredient could feed malassezia: Sorbitan Isostearate. That describes the yeast's food supply, not a prediction that it will cause a breakout.

Can I use Intense Peeling Mask while pregnant?

Nothing in this formula is on the standard pregnancy-caution list. That is not medical clearance — check anything you use daily with your doctor or midwife.

Is Intense Peeling Mask fragrance free?

No — it contains Parfum.

Does Intense Peeling Mask contain alcohol?

No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is no drying alcohol.

Is Intense Peeling Mask silicone free?

Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is silicone-free.

Does Intense Peeling Mask contain essential oils?

Yes — it contains Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes.

Is Intense Peeling Mask paraben free?

Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is paraben-free.

What can I layer with Intense Peeling Mask?

It layers well with Azelaic acid, Copper peptides, Bakuchiol, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid, Ceramides. Take more care combining it with Retinoids (retinol, retinal), Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), AHAs (glycolic, lactic), BHA (salicylic acid), PHAs (gluconolactone), Benzoyl peroxide — use them in separate routines or on alternate days.

When should I apply Intense Peeling Mask?

Use it in the evening, after cleansing, before serums.

How many ingredients does Intense Peeling Mask have?

It lists 25 ingredients, of which 4 are recorded as actives.

Who makes Intense Peeling Mask?

Payot.

Brand
Payot

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