3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Butane-1,3-diol (CAS No. 107-88-0/ EC No. 203-529-7) (R)-(-)-butane-1,3-diol” (CAS No. 6290-03-5/ EC No. 228-532-0)
Payot
Special 5 Drying Gel
face special treatment
Payot
face special treatment
Added Last edited
Fit by skin type
General, ingredient-based — not your personalized match.
See how this fits your skin
Take the skin test and I'll show you how suitable this product is for you.
Take the skin testThe iconic Spéciale 5 has evolved into Spéciale 5 drying gel. Designed as a local complement to the original Pâte Grise stop pimple paste, this purifying and soothing treatment helps blemishes disappear in 5 days. Formulated with 96% ingredients of natural origin, it is enriched with centella asiatica, a botanical active recognized for its regenerating action that helps fade residual marks left on the skin. Day after day, the balance of the cutaneous flora is restored and the appearance of imperfections is visibly reduced. Its plus: Its light gel texture forms an occlusive film around the blemish to isolate it and accelerate its fading.
Special 5 Drying Gel is a watery-light special treatment from Payot. The formula is built mainly around hydration. The ingredient list runs to 28 ingredients, each broken down in full below.
By its ingredient list the formula reads as very light — essentially a water-and-humectant base with little emollient weight. With almost no emollient load it should absorb quickly and finish close to matte. Hydration is handled by Butylene Glycol, Propanediol and Glycerin, humectants that pull water into the upper layers of skin rather than sealing it there.
Hydration: High. Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin, and here that comes from Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin and Arginine.
Soothing: Moderate. Ingredients aimed at visible redness and reactivity, and here that comes from Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract and Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate.
Brightening: Moderate. Ingredients that act on uneven tone and post-inflammatory marks, and here that comes from Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and Tocopherol.
Cell renewal: Moderate. Retinoids, acids and enzymes that speed surface turnover, and here that comes from Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid.
On richness alone it suits Combination (oily) and Oily skin best, and is the least natural fit for Dry and Combination (dry) skin. A few ingredients carry irritation flags, so reactive skin should patch test before using it on the whole face.
The formula contributes little or nothing on barrier support, antioxidant protection and firmness signalling. That is not a fault — most products are not meant to do everything — but if one of those is your priority, this is not the product that will address it.
Reading the full list, the formula is essential-oil-free, paraben-free, silicone-free, microplastic-free, sulfate-free and dye-free. Those claims come from the ingredient list itself, not from the packaging. It does contain fragrance and drying alcohol, worth knowing if your skin reacts to any of them.
It can be used morning and evening. In a routine it goes after toner, before moisturiser. Apply to clean, dry skin and give it a minute to absorb before the next layer. Introduce one new treatment at a time so you can identify what is working.
This summary is generated from the product's ingredient list. It is not a review, it is not the brand's own marketing claims, and it does not replace advice from a dermatologist.
Drawn purely from the ingredient list
Scored on how rich or light the formula reads from its INCI order.
A few ingredients here carry irritation flags. Reactive skin should patch test on the jawline for a few days before using it on the whole face.
Based on the curated benefits documented for this product's ingredients.
Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy
Calms redness, irritation, and inflammation for sensitive skin
Brightens and balances complexion for a more uniform appearance
Regulates sebum production to reduce shine and greasiness
Refines texture by gently exfoliating rough, uneven patches
None of the ingredients in this formula are associated with these benefits. This is not unusual, as most products are designed to target a limited number of concerns.
The actives, UV filters and benefit-carrying ingredients in this formula, in the order they are listed.
3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Butane-1,3-diol (CAS No. 107-88-0/ EC No. 203-529-7) (R)-(-)-butane-1,3-diol” (CAS No. 6290-03-5/ EC No. 228-532-0)
4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
1,3-dihydroxypropane
5th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Acetic acid, hydroxy-
6th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Glycerine ;Glycerol (INN); Glycerol (RIFM); Glycerolum (EP); Glycyl Alcohol; 1,2,3-Propanetriol; 1,2,3-Trihydroxypropane
7th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Spiraea Ulmaria Extract is an extract of the Drop Wort, Spiraea ulmaria L., Rosaceae
8th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a lysate of the product obtained by fermentation of Lactobacillus.
9th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Centella Asiatica Extract is the extract of the whole plant Hydrocotyl, Centella asiatica L., Apiaceae
10th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
L-Arginine
14th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Propanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-
25th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8-tetramethyl-2-(4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl)-2H-benzopyran-6-ol; .alpha.-tocopherol; Vitamin E
Each axis is scored from the ingredients present and how high up the list they sit.
Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin
Lipids and repair signals that support skin barrier integrity
Ingredients that mop up free radicals from UV and pollution
Ingredients that moderate sebum or absorb shine
Ingredients that act on uneven tone and post-inflammatory marks
Ingredients aimed at visible redness and reactivity
Retinoids, acids and enzymes that speed surface turnover
Peptides and growth factors that signal for collagen support
"Active" here means an ingredient carrying a recorded active type or a recognised UV filter.
Solvents, emollients, texture agents and preservatives — the formula that carries the actives.
Read from the full ingredient list. A brand's own claim may differ.
Benzyl Alcohol, Parfum
Alcohol Denat.
Judged by the same curated rules our routine checker uses. It reads the ingredients, not the label.
Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
This product is the "Treat" step.
Flags to check, not verdicts. None of this is medical advice — if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or treating a skin condition, ask a doctor.
Most ingredients do more than one job, so these counts add up to more than the 28 ingredients on the label.
Sets the thickness, spread and stability of the formula
Dissolves and carries everything else
Sets the acidity the formula needs to work
Keeps the product free of microbial growth
Lifts oil and dirt, or holds oil and water together
Draws water into the upper layers of skin
Changes how skin behaves rather than how it feels
Changes how the product smells or looks
Forms a film that slows water loss
Botanical material, usually for antioxidants or scent
Neutralises free radicals from UV and pollution
Calms visible redness and irritation
Softens and smooths by filling gaps between skin cells
Every ingredient on the label, in order, with what it does and roughly how much of it is likely to be there.
1st on the list, which puts it at an estimated 30–80% of the formula.
Water
2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Alcohol Denat. is ethyl alcohol that is denatured with one or more denaturing agents in accordance with the national legislation of each European Community (EU) country.
3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Butane-1,3-diol (CAS No. 107-88-0/ EC No. 203-529-7) (R)-(-)-butane-1,3-diol” (CAS No. 6290-03-5/ EC No. 228-532-0)
4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
1,3-dihydroxypropane
5th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Acetic acid, hydroxy-
6th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Glycerine ;Glycerol (INN); Glycerol (RIFM); Glycerolum (EP); Glycyl Alcohol; 1,2,3-Propanetriol; 1,2,3-Trihydroxypropane
7th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Spiraea Ulmaria Extract is an extract of the Drop Wort, Spiraea ulmaria L., Rosaceae
8th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a lysate of the product obtained by fermentation of Lactobacillus.
9th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Centella Asiatica Extract is the extract of the whole plant Hydrocotyl, Centella asiatica L., Apiaceae
10th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
L-Arginine
11th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.
Cellulose, 2-hydroxyethyl ether
12th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.
13th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sodium hydroxide
14th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Propanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-
15th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Benzyl alcohol
16th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Boron nitride
17th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a copolymer of sodium hydroxyethyl acrylate and acryloyldimethyl taurate monomers
18th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Xanthan gum
19th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Tridecane
20th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Parfum is a term for ingredient labelling used to identify that a product contains a material or a combination of materials normally added to a cosmetic to produce or to mask a particular odour. According to Article 19 of the Cosmetics Regulation, 'Perfume and aromatic compositions and their raw materials shall be referred to by the terms ‘parfum’ or ‘aroma’. '
21st on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sorbitan, monooctadecanoate, poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) derivs.
22nd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sorbitan, isooctadecanoate
23rd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Disodium hydrogenorthophosphate
24th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sodium dihydrogenorthophosphate
25th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8-tetramethyl-2-(4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl)-2H-benzopyran-6-ol; .alpha.-tocopherol; Vitamin E
26th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
1,2-Propanediol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-
27th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Potassium (E,E)-hexa-2,4-dienoate
28th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sodium benzoate
Products in the same category that share this formula's distinguishing ingredients.
Payot
Shares 8 key ingredients with Special 5 Drying Gel: Glycerin, Propanediol, Glycolic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Lactic Acid
IUNIK
Shares 4 key ingredients with Special 5 Drying Gel: Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Arginine
JUMISO
Shares 4 key ingredients with Special 5 Drying Gel: Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Arginine
Dr. Ceuracle
Shares 4 key ingredients with Special 5 Drying Gel: Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Tocopherol
COSRX
Shares 3 key ingredients with Special 5 Drying Gel: Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Centella Asiatica Extract
Dr.Jart+
Shares 3 key ingredients with Special 5 Drying Gel: Glycerin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Butylene Glycol
AQUA, ALCOHOL DENAT., BUTYLENE GLYCOL, PROPANEDIOL, GLYCOLIC ACID, GLYCERIN, SPIRAEA ULMARIA EXTRACT, LACTOBACILLUS FERMENT LYSATE, CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT, ARGININE, HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE, UNDECANE, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, LACTIC ACID, BENZYL ALCOHOL, BORON NITRIDE, HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER, XANTHAN GUM, TRIDECANE, PARFUM, POLYSORBATE 60, SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, DISODIUM PHOSPHATE, SODIUM PHOSPHATE, TOCOPHEROL, CHLORPHENESIN, POTASSIUM SORBATE, SODIUM BENZOATE.
GLYCOLIC ACID, LACTIC ACID.
Apply locally to blemishes, morning and night.
Judged on how rich the formula reads from its ingredient list, it suits Combination (oily), Oily skin best. It is the least natural fit for Dry, Combination (dry) skin.
Some ingredients here carry irritation flags, so sensitive skin should patch test on the jawline for a few days before applying it to the whole face.
3 ingredients could feed malassezia: Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate. That describes the yeast's food supply, not a prediction that they will cause a breakout.
Nothing in this formula is on the standard pregnancy-caution list. That is not medical clearance — check anything you use daily with your doctor or midwife.
No — it contains Benzyl Alcohol, Parfum.
Yes — it contains Alcohol Denat..
Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is silicone-free.
No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is essential-oil-free.
Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is paraben-free.
It layers well with Azelaic acid, Copper peptides, Bakuchiol, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid, Ceramides. Take more care combining it with Retinoids (retinol, retinal), Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), AHAs (glycolic, lactic), BHA (salicylic acid), PHAs (gluconolactone), Benzoyl peroxide — use them in separate routines or on alternate days.
Use it morning and evening, after toner, before moisturiser.
It lists 28 ingredients, of which 2 are recorded as actives.
Payot.
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