Payot
Sublimating Youth Cream
face cream
Payot
face cream
Added Last edited
Fit by skin type
General, ingredient-based — not your personalized match.
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Take the skin testThe sublimating youth cream for mature skin. Formulated for the specific needs of mature skin, this anti-aging day cream targets wrinkles, loss of firmness, pigmentation spots, dullness and dehydration, while restoring lasting comfort. Enriched with magnolia and orchid extracts paired with carcinine, recognized for their antioxidant properties, it also combines a duo of hyaluronic acids for an intense moisturizing action and a vitamin C derivative known to revive radiance. Day after day, it helps the skin defend itself against environmental aggressions and reinforces its natural resilience to stress. Result: Skin appears smoother, firmer, the complexion is evened out. Its plus: Its creamy texture and delicate floral fragrance, for a sensorial morning ritual.
Sublimating Youth Cream is a cushioning cream from Payot. Its job is UV protection, with the rest of the formula working on hydration. The ingredient list runs to 39 ingredients, each broken down in full below.
By its ingredient list the formula reads as moderately cushioned — emollient enough to feel like a cream, without the heaviest occlusives near the top. Silicones in the formula tend to give a smooth, blurred finish and help it grip under makeup. Hydration is handled by Glycerin, Butylene Glycol and Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, humectants that pull water into the upper layers of skin rather than sealing it there.
It is a mineral sunscreen, filtering with Titanium Dioxide. Between them those filters cover UVB and UVA II. They stop short of UVA I (340–400 nm), the deepest ageing wavelengths, so this is not a broad-spectrum filter system by the strictest reading. Every filter in the formula is photostable, so its protection does not fall away over the first hour in the sun — reapplication is still about sweat, water and rubbing rather than degradation.
Hydration: Very high. Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin, and here that comes from Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer and Sodium Hyaluronate.
Soothing: Moderate. Ingredients aimed at visible redness and reactivity, and here that comes from Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate and Algae Extract.
Barrier support: Moderate. Lipids and repair signals that support skin barrier integrity, and here that comes from Butyrospermum Parkii Butter.
On richness alone it suits Balanced skin best, and is the least natural fit for Dry, Combination (dry), Combination (oily) and Oily skin. Nothing in the list is flagged as a common irritant, which is a reasonable starting point for reactive skin — though a patch test is still the only way to know.
The formula contributes little or nothing on antioxidant protection, oil control, brightening and tone and cell renewal. That is not a fault — most products are not meant to do everything — but if one of those is your priority, this is not the product that will address it.
Reading the full list, the formula is essential-oil-free, no drying alcohol, paraben-free, sulfate-free, oil-free and no animal-derived ingredients. Those claims come from the ingredient list itself, not from the packaging. It does contain fragrance, worth knowing if your skin reacts to any of them.
It can be used morning and evening. In a routine it goes after serums. Seal in your serums with it; in the morning, sunscreen still goes on top. It carries UV filters, so it belongs in your morning routine.
This summary is generated from the product's ingredient list. It is not a review, it is not the brand's own marketing claims, and it does not replace advice from a dermatologist.
Drawn purely from the ingredient list
Scored on how rich or light the formula reads from its INCI order.
No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.
Based on the curated benefits documented for this product's ingredients.
Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy
Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Calms redness, irritation, and inflammation for sensitive skin
Fades hyperpigmentation and evens out dark spots over time
Brightens and balances complexion for a more uniform appearance
None of the ingredients in this formula are associated with these benefits. This is not unusual, as most products are designed to target a limited number of concerns.
Mineral filter system · does not reach UVA I
Strong UVB and short-UVA protection, but it stops before UVA I — a mineral formula leaning on titanium dioxide alone needs zinc oxide beside it for deep UVA.
The actives, UV filters and benefit-carrying ingredients in this formula, in the order they are listed.
2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Glycerine ;Glycerol (INN); Glycerol (RIFM); Glycerolum (EP); Glycyl Alcohol; 1,2,3-Propanetriol; 1,2,3-Trihydroxypropane
3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter is the fat obtained from the fruit of the Shea Tree, Butyrospernum parkii, Sapotaceae
4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Hexadecanoic acid, 2-ethylhexyl ester; Octyl palmitate
6th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Bis-Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane is a dimethyl silane ethoxylated methyl diether containing an average of 36 moles of ethylene oxide
7th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Dimethicone
8th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Propanoic acid, 2,2-dimethyl-, isodecyl ester
9th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Butane-1,3-diol (CAS No. 107-88-0/ EC No. 203-529-7) (R)-(-)-butane-1,3-diol” (CAS No. 6290-03-5/ EC No. 228-532-0)
11th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer is a copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate and vinylpyrrolidone monomers
12th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Alcohols, C16-18
14th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
2,2-bis(Hydroxymethyl)propane-1,3-diyl distearate
15th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Decanoic acid, ester with 1,2,3-propanetriol octanoate; Glycerides, mixed decanoyl and octanoyl
19th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate
Each axis is scored from the ingredients present and how high up the list they sit.
Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin
Lipids and repair signals that support skin barrier integrity
Ingredients that mop up free radicals from UV and pollution
Ingredients that moderate sebum or absorb shine
Ingredients that act on uneven tone and post-inflammatory marks
Ingredients aimed at visible redness and reactivity
Retinoids, acids and enzymes that speed surface turnover
Peptides and growth factors that signal for collagen support
Every filter in this formula is photostable
"Active" here means an ingredient carrying a recorded active type or a recognised UV filter.
Solvents, emollients, texture agents and preservatives — the formula that carries the actives.
Read from the full ingredient list. A brand's own claim may differ.
Parfum
Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
CI 77891
Judged by the same curated rules our routine checker uses. It reads the ingredients, not the label.
Nothing in this formula belongs to a group our rules can put in conflict, so it layers freely. Order still matters — thinnest texture first.
This product is the "Moisturise" step.
Flags to check, not verdicts. None of this is medical advice — if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or treating a skin condition, ask a doctor.
Most ingredients do more than one job, so these counts add up to more than the 39 ingredients on the label.
Softens and smooths by filling gaps between skin cells
Sets the thickness, spread and stability of the formula
Lifts oil and dirt, or holds oil and water together
Draws water into the upper layers of skin
Dissolves and carries everything else
Changes how skin behaves rather than how it feels
Neutralises free radicals from UV and pollution
Forms a film that slows water loss
Botanical material, usually for antioxidants or scent
Keeps the product free of microbial growth
Changes how the product smells or looks
Binds trace metals that would otherwise spoil the formula
Loosens or dissolves dead surface cells
Sets the acidity the formula needs to work
Absorbs or scatters ultraviolet light
Every ingredient on the label, in order, with what it does and roughly how much of it is likely to be there.
1st on the list, which puts it at an estimated 30–80% of the formula.
Water
2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Glycerine ;Glycerol (INN); Glycerol (RIFM); Glycerolum (EP); Glycyl Alcohol; 1,2,3-Propanetriol; 1,2,3-Trihydroxypropane
3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter is the fat obtained from the fruit of the Shea Tree, Butyrospernum parkii, Sapotaceae
4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Hexadecanoic acid, 2-ethylhexyl ester; Octyl palmitate
5th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Isohexadecane is a branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbon with 16 carbons.
6th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Bis-Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane is a dimethyl silane ethoxylated methyl diether containing an average of 36 moles of ethylene oxide
7th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Dimethicone
8th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Propanoic acid, 2,2-dimethyl-, isodecyl ester
9th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Butane-1,3-diol (CAS No. 107-88-0/ EC No. 203-529-7) (R)-(-)-butane-1,3-diol” (CAS No. 6290-03-5/ EC No. 228-532-0)
10th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Polymer formed by hydrolysis and condensation of methyltrimethoxysilane
11th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer is a copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate and vinylpyrrolidone monomers
12th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Alcohols, C16-18
13th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
D-Glucopyranose, C16-18 alkyl glycosides
14th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
2,2-bis(Hydroxymethyl)propane-1,3-diyl distearate
15th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Decanoic acid, ester with 1,2,3-propanetriol octanoate; Glycerides, mixed decanoyl and octanoyl
16th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Parfum is a term for ingredient labelling used to identify that a product contains a material or a combination of materials normally added to a cosmetic to produce or to mask a particular odour. According to Article 19 of the Cosmetics Regulation, 'Perfume and aromatic compositions and their raw materials shall be referred to by the terms ‘parfum’ or ‘aroma’. '
17th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Fluorphlogopite, Mg3K[AlF2O(SiO3)3] (synthetic)
18th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
2-Phenoxyethanol
19th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate
20th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
1,2-Propanediol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-
21st on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
2-Ethylhexyl stearate
22nd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
CI 77891 is classed chemically as an inorganic colour (see also INCI: Titanium dioxide). It conforms to the formula
23rd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
L-ascorbic acid, tetraisohexadecanoate
24th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8-tetramethyl-2-(4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl)-2H-benzopyran-6-yl acetate
25th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
3-Amino-N-(2-(1H-imidazol-4-yl)ethyl)propanamide dihydrochloride
26th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
4-Isopropyl-m-cresol
27th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate
28th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
2-Hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid
29th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Algae Extract is an extract of various species of Algae; Extract of the Seaweed, Fucus vesiculosus, Furaceae
30th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate is a diester of a mixture of isostearic, polyhydroxystearic and sebacic acids with Polyglycerin-4
31st on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Hyaluronic acid, sodium salt, polymer with 1,1'-sulfonylbis[ethene]
32nd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Isooctadecanoic acid, sodium salt
33rd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Biosaccharide Gum-1 is a fermentation gum derived from sorbitol. It is described as a polymer of α-L-fucose-1|->|3-α- D-galactose-1|->|3-α-D-galacturonic acid trisaccharides
34th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Hyaluronic acid, sodium, salt
35th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract is an extract of the Alga, Undaria pinnatifida, Alariaceae
36th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Tin dioxide (CI 77861)
37th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
2,6-Di-tert-butyl-p-cresol
38th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
5,5'-Diallyl-2,2'-Dihydroxybiphenyl
39th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Orchid Extract is the extract of various species of the orchid, Orchis
Products in the same category that share this formula's distinguishing ingredients.
Payot
Shares 14 key ingredients with Sublimating Youth Cream: Dimethicone, Glycerin, Bis-peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Payot
Shares 14 key ingredients with Sublimating Youth Cream: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Bis-peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dimethicone
Payot
Shares 11 key ingredients with Sublimating Youth Cream: Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butylene Glycol
VT Cosmetics
Shares 10 key ingredients with Sublimating Youth Cream: Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol
Payot
Shares 10 key ingredients with Sublimating Youth Cream: Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Cetearyl Alcohol
SUNGBOON EDITOR
Shares 9 key ingredients with Sublimating Youth Cream: Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone
AQUA, GLYCERIN, BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER, ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE, ISOHEXADECANE, BIS-PEG-18 METHYL ETHER DIMETHYL SILANE, DIMETHICONE, ISODECYL NEOPENTANOATE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE, AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE, PENTAERYTHRITYL DISTEARATE, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, PARFUM, SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, PHENOXYETHANOL, SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, CHLORPHENESIN, ETHYLHEXYL STEARATE, CI 77891, ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, DECARBOXY CARNOSINE HCL, O-CYMEN-5-OL, TETRASODIUM EDTA, CITRIC ACID, ALGAE EXTRACT, POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE/POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE/SEBACATE, SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER, SODIUM ISOSTEARATE, BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1, SODIUM HYALURONATE, UNDARIA PINNATIFIDA EXTRACT, TIN OXIDE, BHT, MAGNOLOL, ORCHID EXTRACT.
ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE, CITRIC ACID, SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER, SODIUM HYALURONATE.
In the morning, on cleansed skin, after your serum.
Judged on how rich the formula reads from its ingredient list, it suits Balanced skin best. It is the least natural fit for Dry, Combination (dry), Combination (oily), Oily skin.
No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.
7 ingredients could feed malassezia: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, Sodium Isostearate. That describes the yeast's food supply, not a prediction that they will cause a breakout.
Nothing in this formula is on the standard pregnancy-caution list. That is not medical clearance — check anything you use daily with your doctor or midwife.
No — it contains Parfum.
No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is no drying alcohol.
No — it contains Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane.
No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is essential-oil-free.
Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is paraben-free.
It layers well with Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Retinoids (retinol, retinal), AHAs (glycolic, lactic), BHA (salicylic acid), PHAs (gluconolactone), Benzoyl peroxide.
Use it morning and evening, after serums.
It lists 39 ingredients, of which 4 are recorded as actives.
Payot.
It filters UV with Titanium Dioxide (titanium dioxide).
Not in the strictest sense. Its filters stop short of UVA I (340–400 nm), the deepest ageing wavelengths.
Possibly. It filters with mineral UV filters, which sit on the surface and can leave a visible cast on deeper skin tones, especially at high SPF.
It contains none of the filters named in the Hawaii and Key West reef legislation (oxybenzone and octinoxate). "Reef safe" is not a regulated term, so treat that as a fact about the filter list rather than a certification.
Yes. Let it set for a couple of minutes before foundation so it does not pill, and reapply over makeup with a stick or powder rather than rubbing more in.
Every two hours of sun exposure, and immediately after swimming, sweating heavily or towelling off.
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