2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Glycerine ;Glycerol (INN); Glycerol (RIFM); Glycerolum (EP); Glycyl Alcohol; 1,2,3-Propanetriol; 1,2,3-Trihydroxypropane
Allies of Skin
Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial
face chemical peel
Allies of Skin
face chemical peel
Added Last edited
Fit by skin type
General, ingredient-based — not your personalized match.
See how this fits your skin
Take the skin test and I'll show you how suitable this product is for you.
Take the skin testAn all-in-one night-time treatment for those prone to discolouration and breakouts, the Allies of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial (48ml) delivers visibly renewed results by morning. Powered by a 7% glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid blend, this innovative peel gently sweeps away dead cells from your skin's top layer, purging clogged pores and blackheads for a more clarified appearance. A 1% retinoid complex helps to smooth out expression lines to leave a noticeably plumper and brighter result, all while enhancing your skin's natural glow. Its active ingredients are suspended in a slow-release nourishing gel (full of all the hydrating good stuff: sodium hyaluronate, yoghurt, niacinamide, panthenol and manuka honey to name a few) to replenish moisture and protect skin against redness post-peel.
Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial is a lightweight chemical peel from Allies of Skin. The formula is built mainly around hydration, soothing and brightening and tone. The ingredient list runs to 56 ingredients, each broken down in full below.
By its ingredient list the formula reads as light: water and humectants lead, with emollients kept lower in the order. Hydration is handled by Glycerin, Propanediol and Butylene Glycol, humectants that pull water into the upper layers of skin rather than sealing it there.
Hydration: High. Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin, and here that comes from Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol and Panthenol.
Soothing: High. Ingredients aimed at visible redness and reactivity, and here that comes from Panthenol, Allantoin, Bisabolol and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate.
Brightening: High. Ingredients that act on uneven tone and post-inflammatory marks, and here that comes from Niacinamide, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid.
Cell renewal: Moderate. Retinoids, acids and enzymes that speed surface turnover, and here that comes from Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate.
On richness alone it suits Balanced, Combination (oily) and Oily skin best, and is the least natural fit for Dry and Combination (dry) skin. Nothing in the list is flagged as a common irritant, which is a reasonable starting point for reactive skin — though a patch test is still the only way to know.
The formula contributes little or nothing on antioxidant protection and firmness signalling. That is not a fault — most products are not meant to do everything — but if one of those is your priority, this is not the product that will address it.
Reading the full list, the formula is fragrance-free, essential-oil-free, no drying alcohol, paraben-free, silicone-free and microplastic-free. Those claims come from the ingredient list itself, not from the packaging.
Use it in the evening. In a routine it goes after cleansing, before serums. Start at once or twice a week and build up only if skin stays comfortable. Wear sunscreen the next morning — fresh exfoliation raises UV sensitivity.
This summary is generated from the product's ingredient list. It is not a review, it is not the brand's own marketing claims, and it does not replace advice from a dermatologist.
Drawn purely from the ingredient list
Scored on how rich or light the formula reads from its INCI order.
No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.
Based on the curated benefits documented for this product's ingredients.
Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy
Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Calms redness, irritation, and inflammation for sensitive skin
Brightens and balances complexion for a more uniform appearance
Targets breakouts by reducing bacteria and unclogging pores
Refines texture by gently exfoliating rough, uneven patches
Helps unclog pores and reduce blackheads for clearer skin
Fades hyperpigmentation and evens out dark spots over time
Regulates sebum production to reduce shine and greasiness
Tightens and refines the look of enlarged pores
The actives, UV filters and benefit-carrying ingredients in this formula, in the order they are listed.
2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Glycerine ;Glycerol (INN); Glycerol (RIFM); Glycerolum (EP); Glycyl Alcohol; 1,2,3-Propanetriol; 1,2,3-Trihydroxypropane
3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Acetic acid, hydroxy-
5th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
1,3-dihydroxypropane
6th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a gentle skincare active that repairs the skin barrier, calms redness, controls oil and evens tone at 2–5%. Official IUPAC name: **3-Pyridinecarboxamide**
7th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Butane-1,3-diol (CAS No. 107-88-0/ EC No. 203-529-7) (R)-(-)-butane-1,3-diol” (CAS No. 6290-03-5/ EC No. 228-532-0)
10th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sodium gluconate
11th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Propanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-
13th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Salicylic acid
16th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Mel (EU)
17th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Butanamide, 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethyl-, (2R)-; dl-Panthenol
19th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Urea, (2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl)-
20th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Hyaluronic acid, sodium, salt
Each axis is scored from the ingredients present and how high up the list they sit.
Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin
Lipids and repair signals that support skin barrier integrity
Ingredients that mop up free radicals from UV and pollution
Ingredients that moderate sebum or absorb shine
Ingredients that act on uneven tone and post-inflammatory marks
Ingredients aimed at visible redness and reactivity
Retinoids, acids and enzymes that speed surface turnover
Peptides and growth factors that signal for collagen support
"Active" here means an ingredient carrying a recorded active type or a recognised UV filter.
Solvents, emollients, texture agents and preservatives — the formula that carries the actives.
Read from the full ingredient list. A brand's own claim may differ.
Honey, Hydrolyzed Silk
Judged by the same curated rules our routine checker uses. It reads the ingredients, not the label.
Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.
Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.
Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.
Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.
Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.
This product is the "Exfoliate" step.
Flags to check, not verdicts. None of this is medical advice — if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or treating a skin condition, ask a doctor.
Most ingredients do more than one job, so these counts add up to more than the 56 ingredients on the label.
Sets the thickness, spread and stability of the formula
Draws water into the upper layers of skin
Botanical material, usually for antioxidants or scent
Changes how skin behaves rather than how it feels
Forms a film that slows water loss
Dissolves and carries everything else
Sets the acidity the formula needs to work
Neutralises free radicals from UV and pollution
Binds trace metals that would otherwise spoil the formula
Keeps the product free of microbial growth
Calms visible redness and irritation
Loosens or dissolves dead surface cells
Softens and smooths by filling gaps between skin cells
Lifts oil and dirt, or holds oil and water together
Every ingredient on the label, in order, with what it does and roughly how much of it is likely to be there.
1st on the list, which puts it at an estimated 30–80% of the formula.
Water
2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Glycerine ;Glycerol (INN); Glycerol (RIFM); Glycerolum (EP); Glycyl Alcohol; 1,2,3-Propanetriol; 1,2,3-Trihydroxypropane
3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.
Acetic acid, hydroxy-
4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Sorbitan, monododecanoate, poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) derivs.
5th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
1,3-dihydroxypropane
6th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a gentle skincare active that repairs the skin barrier, calms redness, controls oil and evens tone at 2–5%. Official IUPAC name: **3-Pyridinecarboxamide**
7th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.
Butane-1,3-diol (CAS No. 107-88-0/ EC No. 203-529-7) (R)-(-)-butane-1,3-diol” (CAS No. 6290-03-5/ EC No. 228-532-0)
8th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sodium hydroxide
9th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is a copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate, dimethylacrylamide, lauryl methacrylate and laureth-4 methacrylate, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate
10th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sodium gluconate
11th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Propanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-
12th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Octane-1,2-diol
13th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Salicylic acid
14th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Yogurt Powder is a powder obtained from dried, ground yogurt
15th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment is the product obtained by the fermentation of black tea by the microorganism, Saccharomyces and Xylinium
16th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Mel (EU)
17th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Butanamide, 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethyl-, (2R)-; dl-Panthenol
18th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of the Licorice, Glycyrrhiza glabra L., Leguminosae
19th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Urea, (2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl)-
20th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Hyaluronic acid, sodium, salt
21st on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Protein hydrolyzates, silk
22nd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
(R*,R*)-.alpha.,4-dimethyl-.alpha.-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-methanol; 3-Cyclohexene-1-methanol, alpha,4-dimethyl-alpha-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-, (theta,theta)-(+/-)-; 3-Cyclohexene-1-methanol, alpha,4-dimethyl-alpha-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-, (S-(theta,theta))- (levomenol)
23rd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8-tetramethyl-2-(4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl)-2H-benzopyran-6-ol; .alpha.-tocopherol; Vitamin E
24th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Mel Extract (EU)
25th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Globularia Alypum Leaf Extract is the extract of the leaves of Globularia alypum.
26th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Physalis Angulata Extract is the extract of the whole plant, Physalis angulata L., Solanaceae
27th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract is the hydrolysate of an extract of the flowers of Opuntia ficus-indica, Cactaceae derived by acid, enzyme or other method of hydrolysis
28th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract is an extract of the Alga, Ascophyllum nodosum (L.), Fucaceae
29th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
30th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Caffeyl Glucoside is the product obtained by the reaction of Caffeic Acid and Glucose
31st on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Gallyl Glucoside is the product of the reaction of Gallic Acid and glucose
32nd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Polygonum Cuspidatum Extract is an extract of the whole plant of the Japanese Knotweed, Polygonum cuspidatum, Polygonaceae
33rd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
3,5-(Di-D-Glucopyranosyl)Gallic Acid
34th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Dimethyl sulphone
35th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Zymomonas Ferment Extract is an extract of the product obtained by the fermentation of Zymomonas Mobilis
36th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is the extract of the flowers, leaves and stems of Marvel of Peru, Mirabilis jalapa L., Nyctaginaceae
37th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
1H-Thieno[3,4-d]imidazole-4-pentanoic acid, hexahydro-2-oxo-, [3aS-(3a.alpha.,4.beta.,6a.alpha.)]-
38th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Rosmarinyl Glucoside is the product obtained by the reaction of Rosmarinic Acid and glucose
39th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
1,4:3,6-Dianhydro-2,5-di-O-methyl-D-glucitol
40th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Galactoarabinan
41st on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Fructosane
42nd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Decanoic acid, ester with 1,2,3-propanetriol octanoate; Glycerides, mixed decanoyl and octanoyl
43rd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
1,2-Propanediol, 3-(2-ethylhexyloxy)
44th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is a copolymer of glyceryl acrylate and acrylic acid
45th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sodium lactate
46th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Maltodextrin
47th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Scleroglucan
48th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Xanthan gum
49th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
2-Methylpropan-2-ol
50th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Cellulose, 2-hydroxyethyl ether
51st on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Trisodium citrate
52nd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate
53rd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
2-Hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid
54th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Potassium (E,E)-hexa-2,4-dienoate
55th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
Sodium benzoate
56th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.
2-Phenoxyethanol
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AQUA, GLYCERIN, GLYCOLIC ACID, POLYSORBATE 20, PROPANEDIOL, NIACINAMIDE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6, SODIUM GLUCONATE, LACTIC ACID, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, SALICYLIC ACID, YOGURT POWDER, SACCHAROMYCES/XYLINUM/BLACK TEA FERMENT, HONEY, PANTHENOL, GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA ROOT EXTRACT, ALLANTOIN, SODIUM HYALURONATE, HYDROLYZED SILK, BISABOLOL, TOCOPHEROL, HONEY EXTRACT, GLOBULARIA ALYPUM LEAF EXTRACT, PHYSALIS ANGULATA EXTRACT, HYDROLYZED OPUNTIA FICUS-INDICA FLOWER EXTRACT, ASCOPHYLLUM NODOSUM EXTRACT, HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATE, CAFFEYL GLUCOSIDE, GALLYL GLUCOSIDE, POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM EXTRACT, DIGLUCOSYL GALLIC ACID, DIMETHYL SULFONE, ZYMOMONAS FERMENT EXTRACT, MIRABILIS JALAPA FLOWER/LEAF/STEM EXTRACT, BIOTIN, ROSMARINYL GLUCOSIDE, DIMETHYL ISOSORBIDE, GALACTOARABINAN, INULIN, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, GLYCERYL ACRYLATE/ACRYLIC ACID COPOLYMER, SODIUM LACTATE, MALTODEXTRIN, SCLEROTIUM GUM, XANTHAN GUM, T-BUTYL ALCOHOL, HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE, SODIUM CITRATE, DISODIUM EDTA, CITRIC ACID, POTASSIUM SORBATE, SODIUM BENZOATE, PHENOXYETHANOL.
GLYCOLIC ACID, NIACINAMIDE, LACTIC ACID, SALICYLIC ACID, PANTHENOL, SODIUM HYALURONATE, HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATE, CITRIC ACID.
Apply 2-5 pumps to your face, avoiding the eye area. Use weekly: 3 nights in a row (PM).
Judged on how rich the formula reads from its ingredient list, it suits Balanced, Combination (oily), Oily skin best. It is the least natural fit for Dry, Combination (dry) skin.
No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.
2 ingredients could feed malassezia: Polysorbate 20, Saccharomyces/xylinum/black Tea Ferment. That describes the yeast's food supply, not a prediction that they will cause a breakout.
It contains Salicylic Acid, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, which are usually reviewed with a doctor during pregnancy. Ask your doctor or midwife before using it.
Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is fragrance-free.
No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is no drying alcohol.
Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is silicone-free.
No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is essential-oil-free.
Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is paraben-free.
It layers well with Copper peptides, Bakuchiol, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid, Ceramides, Signal peptides. Take more care combining it with Retinoids (retinol, retinal), AHAs (glycolic, lactic), BHA (salicylic acid), PHAs (gluconolactone), Benzoyl peroxide, Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Azelaic acid — use them in separate routines or on alternate days.
Use it in the evening, after cleansing, before serums.
It lists 56 ingredients, of which 8 are recorded as actives.
Allies of Skin.
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