Allies of Skin 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream

Allies of Skin

0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream

face neck cream

Added Last edited

Fit by skin type

General, ingredient-based — not your personalized match.

Dry
68%
Combination (dry)
68%
Balanced
98%
Combination (oily)
72%
Oily
72%

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57
Ingredients
7
Benefits
7
Actives
Find Dupes

Allies of Skin expands its collection of retinal-based products with the hard-working 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream (48ml). Ideal for those beginning their retinoid journey, this cream works to reverse the daily damage caused by environmental aggressors - we're talking everything from UV rays to pollution. It's powered by retinal which is 30% gentler and three times more bio-active than retinol, leaving the skin more hydrated and radiant, with signs of pigmentation and blemishes reduced. What's more, it also boosts the appearance of firmer skin while evening tone and texture too.

Key Insights

Benefits

7
Anti-Acne
Anti-Aging
Blackhead Reducing
Evens Skin Tone
Hydration
Oil Control
Soothing

Active Ingredients

7
AHA BHA PHA Ceramides Retinoids Signal peptides Vitamin B5 (panthenol)

Risks

2
Pregnancy Unsafe
Synthetic polymer

About 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream

Overview

0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream is a cushioning cream from Allies of Skin. The formula is built mainly around hydration. The ingredient list runs to 57 ingredients, each broken down in full below.

Texture and finish

By its ingredient list the formula reads as moderately cushioned — emollient enough to feel like a cream, without the heaviest occlusives near the top. The oils in it point to a dewy, emollient finish rather than a matte one. Hydration is handled by Glycerin, Propanediol and Beta-glucan, humectants that pull water into the upper layers of skin rather than sealing it there.

What the formula does

Hydration: Very high. Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin, and here that comes from Glycerin, Propanediol, Beta-glucan and Panthenol.

Soothing: Moderate. Ingredients aimed at visible redness and reactivity, and here that comes from Beta-glucan, Centella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside and Asiaticoside.

Who it suits

On richness alone it suits Balanced skin best, and is the least natural fit for Dry, Combination (dry), Combination (oily) and Oily skin. Nothing in the list is flagged as a common irritant, which is a reasonable starting point for reactive skin — though a patch test is still the only way to know.

What is not in it

Reading the full list, the formula is fragrance-free, essential-oil-free, no drying alcohol, paraben-free, silicone-free and microplastic-free. Those claims come from the ingredient list itself, not from the packaging.

Where it fits in a routine

It can be used morning and evening. In a routine it goes after serums. Seal in your serums with it; in the morning, sunscreen still goes on top.

This summary is generated from the product's ingredient list. It is not a review, it is not the brand's own marketing claims, and it does not replace advice from a dermatologist.

Pros and cons

Drawn purely from the ingredient list

Pros

  • No fragrance or declared allergens
  • No essential oils
  • No drying alcohol
  • Silicone-free
  • No microplastics
  • Strong humectant content for hydration
  • No common irritants flagged in the list

Things to know

  • 6 ingredients could feed malassezia (fungal acne)
  • Contains ingredients usually flagged for review during pregnancy

Which skin types it suits

Scored on how rich or light the formula reads from its INCI order.

Suitable for

  • Balanced skin

Less suitable for

  • Dry skin
  • Combination (dry) skin
  • Combination (oily) skin
  • Oily skin

Sensitive skin

No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.

Skin concerns

Based on the curated benefits documented for this product's ingredients.

Helps with

  • Anti-Aging 24 ingredients

    Boosts collagen and cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

  • Hydration 18 ingredients

    Attracts and locks in moisture to keep skin plump and dewy

  • Soothing 12 ingredients

    Calms redness, irritation, and inflammation for sensitive skin

  • Evens Skin Tone 4 ingredients

    Brightens and balances complexion for a more uniform appearance

  • Oil Control 3 ingredients

    Regulates sebum production to reduce shine and greasiness

  • Anti-Acne 1 ingredient

    Targets breakouts by reducing bacteria and unclogging pores

  • Blackhead Reducing 1 ingredient

    Helps unclog pores and reduce blackheads for clearer skin

Does not target

Dark Spot Fading Pore Minimizer Smooths Bumpy Skin

None of the ingredients in this formula are associated with these benefits. This is not unusual, as most products are designed to target a limited number of concerns.

Key ingredients

The actives, UV filters and benefit-carrying ingredients in this formula, in the order they are listed.

2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.

Decanoic acid, ester with 1,2,3-propanetriol octanoate; Glycerides, mixed decanoyl and octanoyl

Hydration

3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.

Glycerine ;Glycerol (INN); Glycerol (RIFM); Glycerolum (EP); Glycyl Alcohol; 1,2,3-Propanetriol; 1,2,3-Trihydroxypropane

Hydration Anti-Aging

4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil is the fixed oil expressed from the kernels, Argania Spinosa (L.), Sapotaceae

Hydration Anti-Aging

5th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.

1,3-dihydroxypropane

Hydration

6th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.

Punica Granatum Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds of the Pomegranate, Punica granatum L., Punicaceae

Anti-Aging Hydration Soothing

8th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.

Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate

Hydration

12th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters is the hydrolysate of Jojoba Esters derived by acid, enzyme or other method of hydrolysis

Hydration

13th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

beta-Glucan is a polysaccharide consisting of b(1-3) linked glucose chains carrying b(1-6) linked glucose sidechains

Soothing Hydration

14th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Centella Asiatica Extract is the extract of the whole plant Hydrocotyl, Centella asiatica L., Apiaceae

Soothing Anti-Aging

16th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is an extract of the leaves of the Tea, Camellia sinensis, Theaceae

Anti-Aging Soothing

17th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

2,5-Cyclohexadiene-1,4-dione, 2-(3,7,11,15,19,23,27,31,35,39-decamethyl-2,6,10,14,18,22,26,30,34,38-tetracontadecaenyl)-5,6-dimethoxy-3-methyl-, (all-E)-

Anti-Aging Soothing

18th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Benzoic acid, 3,4,5-trihydroxy, (2R,3R)-3,4-dihydro-5,7-dihydroxy-2-(3,4,5-trihydroxyphenyl)-2H-1-benzopyran-3-yl ester

Anti-Aging Oil Control

Formula analysis

Each axis is scored from the ingredients present and how high up the list they sit.

Hydration Very high

Ingredients that pull and hold water in the upper layers of skin

Barrier support Low

Lipids and repair signals that support skin barrier integrity

Antioxidant support Low

Ingredients that mop up free radicals from UV and pollution

Oil control Low

Ingredients that moderate sebum or absorb shine

Brightening Low

Ingredients that act on uneven tone and post-inflammatory marks

Soothing Moderate

Ingredients aimed at visible redness and reactivity

Cell renewal Low

Retinoids, acids and enzymes that speed surface turnover

Firmness signalling Low

Peptides and growth factors that signal for collagen support

Active and supporting ingredients

"Active" here means an ingredient carrying a recorded active type or a recognised UV filter.

Active ingredients (8)

Supporting ingredients (49)

Solvents, emollients, texture agents and preservatives — the formula that carries the actives.

Aqua Caprylic/capric Triglyceride Glycerin Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Propanediol Punica Granatum Seed Oil Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Sodium Acrylates Copolymer Leuconostoc/radish Root Ferment Filtrate Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters Beta-glucan Centella Asiatica Extract Saccharomyces/xylinum/black Tea Ferment Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Ubiquinone Epigallocatechin Gallate Madecassoside Asiaticoside Arginine Glycolipids Ornithine Bisabolol Populus Tremuloides Bark Extract Lecithin Oxidized Glutathione Tocopherol Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Levulinic Acid Biotin Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract Sodium Polyacrylate Potassium Sorbate Butylene Glycol Sodium Gluconate Pentylene Glycol Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Carbomer Cyclodextrin Polysorbate 20 Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Citrate Hydroxyethylcellulose Phenoxyethanol P-anisic Acid

What is and is not in it

Read from the full ingredient list. A brand's own claim may differ.

Free from

  • Fragrance-free
  • Essential-oil-free
  • No drying alcohol
  • Paraben-free
  • Silicone-free
  • Microplastic-free
  • Sulfate-free
  • Dye-free
  • No animal-derived ingredients

Contains

  • Facial oils

    Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

What to layer it with

Judged by the same curated rules our routine checker uses. It reads the ingredients, not the label.

Compatible with

  • Copper peptides
  • Bakuchiol
  • Niacinamide
  • Hyaluronic acid
  • Ceramides
  • Signal peptides
  • Panthenol
  • Sunscreen

Use with caution

  • Retinoids (retinol, retinal)

    Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.

  • AHAs (glycolic, lactic)

    Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.

  • BHA (salicylic acid)

    Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.

  • PHAs (gluconolactone)

    Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.

  • Benzoyl peroxide

    Best kept to separate routines — one in the morning, one at night, or on alternate days.

  • Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

    Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.

  • Azelaic acid

    Can be layered, but the combination raises the irritation risk. Go slowly.

Where it fits in a routine

Morning Evening
  1. Cleanse
  2. Toning
  3. Treat
  4. Moisturise
  5. Protect

This product is the "Moisturise" step.

  • Seal in your serums with it; in the morning, sunscreen still goes on top.

Safety and suitability

Flags to check, not verdicts. None of this is medical advice — if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or treating a skin condition, ask a doctor.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding
Contains Retinal, Salicylic Acid, usually reviewed with a doctor during pregnancy.
Fungal acne (malassezia)
6 ingredients could feed malassezia: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Saccharomyces/xylinum/black Tea Ferment, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Polysorbate 20. That is about the yeast's food supply, not a prediction that you will break out.
Sensitive and reactive skin
No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.
Recorded ingredient risks
Pregnancy Unsafe, Synthetic polymer

Ingredients by function

Most ingredients do more than one job, so these counts add up to more than the 57 ingredients on the label.

8
Active

Changes how skin behaves rather than how it feels

7
Emollient

Softens and smooths by filling gaps between skin cells

7
Texture agent

Sets the thickness, spread and stability of the formula

6
Antioxidant

Neutralises free radicals from UV and pollution

6
Occlusive

Forms a film that slows water loss

6
Plant extract

Botanical material, usually for antioxidants or scent

5
Chelator

Binds trace metals that would otherwise spoil the formula

5
Preservative

Keeps the product free of microbial growth

5
Solvent

Dissolves and carries everything else

4
Peptide

Amino-acid chains that signal for repair or firmness

4
Surfactant

Lifts oil and dirt, or holds oil and water together

3
Humectant

Draws water into the upper layers of skin

3
pH adjuster

Sets the acidity the formula needs to work

2
Soothing

Calms visible redness and irritation

1
Exfoliant

Loosens or dissolves dead surface cells

1
UV filter

Absorbs or scatters ultraviolet light

Ingredient breakdown

Every ingredient on the label, in order, with what it does and roughly how much of it is likely to be there.

1 Aqua Solvent
Estimated level
30–80%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Solvent

1st on the list, which puts it at an estimated 30–80% of the formula.

Water

Estimated level
5–20%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line

2nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.

Decanoic acid, ester with 1,2,3-propanetriol octanoate; Glycerides, mixed decanoyl and octanoyl

Hydration
5 scientific references
  • International Journal of Toxicology, September 2020, pages 34-35
  • Periodica Polytechnica Chemical Engineering, 2014, pages 43-48
  • International Journal of Toxicology, January 2003, pages 4-5
  • Food and Chemical Toxicology, January 2000, pages 79-98
  • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, August 1985, pages 303-311
3 Glycerin Humectant
Estimated level
5–20%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Humectant, Occlusive, Texture agent, Solvent

3rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 5–20% of the formula.

Glycerine ;Glycerol (INN); Glycerol (RIFM); Glycerolum (EP); Glycyl Alcohol; 1,2,3-Propanetriol; 1,2,3-Trihydroxypropane

Hydration Anti-Aging
6 scientific references
  • Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation, March 2021, pages 223-231
  • International Journal of Toxicology, November/December 2019, Volume 38, Supplement 3, pages 6S-22S
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, August 2016, ePublication
  • British Journal of Dermatology, July 2008, pages 23-34
  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, June 2007, pages 75-82
  • Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, June 2003, pages 7, 360-7, 365
Estimated level
2–10%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Emollient

4th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil is the fixed oil expressed from the kernels, Argania Spinosa (L.), Sapotaceae

Hydration Anti-Aging
8 scientific references
  • Supercharged Hydration
  • How Hyaluronic Acid Benefits Skin
  • What is Dehydrated Skin & How to Choose the Best Products
  • What Your Moisturizer Must Contain
  • Moisturizer Myths You Should Stop Believing Now
  • The Benefits of Glycerin in Skin Care
  • The Best Face Oils for Skin
  • How Facial Oils Help Skin
5 Propanediol Texture agent
Estimated level
2–10%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Texture agent, Solvent

5th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.

1,3-dihydroxypropane

Hydration
4 scientific references
  • PubChem Compound Summary, April 2021, ePublication
  • SpecialChem, Accessed April 2021, ePublication
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review, June 2018, pages 1-73
  • Cosmetics & Toiletries, May 2013, pages 81-86
Estimated level
2–10%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Emollient

6th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 2–10% of the formula.

Punica Granatum Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds of the Pomegranate, Punica granatum L., Punicaceae

Anti-Aging Hydration Soothing
Estimated level
1–5%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line

7th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.

L-Proline, 5-hydroxy-, dihydroxymethylsilyl ester, reaction products with (S)-aminobutanedioic acid

Estimated level
1–5%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Surfactant

8th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.

Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate

Hydration
Estimated level
1–5%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Occlusive, Texture agent

9th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer is the sodium salt of a polymer consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their simple esters

Synthetic polymer
Estimated level
1–5%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Plant extract, Preservative

10th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–5% of the formula.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a filtrate of the product obtained by the fermentation of Raphanus sativus roots by the microorganism, Leuconostoc

Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line

11th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil is the fixed oil expressed from the seeds of Rubus chamaemorus L., Rosaceae

Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Occlusive

12th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters is the hydrolysate of Jojoba Esters derived by acid, enzyme or other method of hydrolysis

Hydration
4 scientific references
  • Advances in Environmental Biology, January 2016, pages 237-249
  • Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, March 2009
  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, December 2008, pages 268-274
  • https://journalssagepubcom/doi/abs/103109/10915819209141992
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line

13th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

beta-Glucan is a polysaccharide consisting of b(1-3) linked glucose chains carrying b(1-6) linked glucose sidechains

Soothing Hydration
6 scientific references
  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, December 2018, pages 1, 101-1, 107
  • International Journal of Molecular Sciences, September 2017, pages 1-48
  • Phytotherapy Research, February 2014, pages 159-166
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review, October 2012, pages 1-52
  • Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, February 2007, pages 167-170
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2005, page 292
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Soothing, Surfactant, Plant extract

14th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Centella Asiatica Extract is the extract of the whole plant Hydrocotyl, Centella asiatica L., Apiaceae

Soothing Anti-Aging
6 scientific references
  • Phytomedicine, April 2018, pages 110–119
  • Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, August 2017, pages 311–315
  • Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Jan-Feb 2016, pages 27–33
  • Postepy Dermatologii I, February 2013, pages 46–49
  • Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 2010, pages 546–556
  • Scientific Reports, June 2021, ePublication
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line

15th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment is the product obtained by the fermentation of black tea by the microorganism, Saccharomyces and Xylinium

Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
UV filter, Humectant, Emollient, Occlusive, Antioxidant, Plant extract, Preservative

16th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is an extract of the leaves of the Tea, Camellia sinensis, Theaceae

Anti-Aging Soothing
17 Ubiquinone Antioxidant
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Antioxidant

17th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

2,5-Cyclohexadiene-1,4-dione, 2-(3,7,11,15,19,23,27,31,35,39-decamethyl-2,6,10,14,18,22,26,30,34,38-tetracontadecaenyl)-5,6-dimethoxy-3-methyl-, (all-E)-

Anti-Aging Soothing
6 scientific references
  • Free Radical Biology and Medicine, March 2021, pages 282-288
  • Biofactors, November-December 2015, pages 383-390; 2008, pages 245-255; and 2005, pages 179-185
  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2006, issue 1, pages 30-38
  • Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2005, issue 4, pages 12-13
  • Journal of Dermatological Science, August 2001, Supplement, pages 1-4
  • https://wwwcir-safetyorg/sites/default/files/Ubiquinonepdf
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Antioxidant

18th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Benzoic acid, 3,4,5-trihydroxy, (2R,3R)-3,4-dihydro-5,7-dihydroxy-2-(3,4,5-trihydroxyphenyl)-2H-1-benzopyran-3-yl ester

Anti-Aging Oil Control
8 scientific references
  • Phytotherapy Research, September 2020, pages 2, 170-2, 179
  • International Journal of Molecular Sciences, January 2018, page 173
  • European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics, August 2017, pages 286-291
  • Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, June 2017, pages 1-7
  • Journal of Investigative Dermatology, February 2013, pages 429–440
  • Rheumatology, July 2010 Epublication
  • The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, January 2009, pages 36-40
  • Food and Chemical Toxicology, April 2008, pages 1, 298-1, 307
19 Madecassoside Antioxidant
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Antioxidant

19th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

O-6-Deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl-(1→4)-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-(1→6)-β-D-glucopyranosyl (2α,3β,4α,6β)-2,3,6,23-tetrahydroxyurs-12-en-28-oate

Anti-Aging Soothing
20 Asiaticoside Antioxidant
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Antioxidant

20th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Urs-12-en-28-oic acid, 2,3,23-trihydroxy-, O-6-deoxy-alpha-L-mannopyranosyl-(1->4)-O-beta-D-glucopyranosyl-(1->6)-beta-D-glucopyranosyl ester (2alpha, 3beta, 4alpha)-

Anti-Aging Soothing
21 Ceramide NP Active
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Active

21st on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Ceramide NP,1,3,4-Octadecanetriol, 2-Octadecanamide,Stearoyl-C18-Phytosphingosine,Stearoyl-4-Hydroxysphinganine

Hydration Anti-Aging
11 scientific references
  • International Journal of Toxicology, 2020, pages 5S-25S
  • International Journal of Molecular Sciences, August 2019, pages 1-15
  • Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2016, pages 135-147
  • Biochimica et Biophysica Acta, October 2014, pages 2473-2483
  • Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, July 2014, pages 177-184
  • Journal of Lipid Research, July 2008, pages 1, 466-1, 476
  • Journal of Lipid Research, September 2007, pages 1936-1943
  • American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2003, pages 107-129
  • Contact Dermatitis, June 2002, pages 331-338
  • Journal of Investigative Dermatology, November 2001, pages 1, 126-1, 136
  • Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, September-October 2001, pages 261-271
22 Panthenol Active
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Active

22nd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Butanamide, 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethyl-, (2R)-; dl-Panthenol

Hydration Soothing
7 scientific references
  • The Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University, Accessed April 2021, ePublication
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, December 2019, pages 534-547
  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, January 2019, pages 346-354
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review, March 2018, pages 1-51
  • The Journal of Dermatological Treatment, August 2017, pages 173-180
  • Journal of Cosmetic Science, August 2011, pages 361-370
  • American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, Volume 3, 2002, pages 427-433
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line

23rd on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

L-Arginine

Hydration Anti-Aging
6 scientific references
  • Biobased Surfactants (Second Edition), 2019, pages 413-445
  • Scientific Reports, February 2016, pages 1-10
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review, October 2012, pages 1-35
  • Journal of Advanced Research, July 2010, pages 169–177
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2005, page 139
  • Wound Repair and Regeneration, November-December 2003, pages 419-423
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line

24th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Glycolipids are mixed substances which contain carbohydrates covalently attached to a lipid

Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line

25th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Pentanoic acid, 2,5-diamino-, (S)-

26 Retinal Active
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Active

26th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

2,4,6,8-Nonatetraenal, 3,7-dimethyl-9-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1-cyclohexen-1-yl)-, (all-E)-

Anti-Aging Evens Skin Tone Oil Control Pregnancy Unsafe
10 scientific references
  • Dermatology, August 2002, pages 153–158
  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, November 2021, pages 3,586-3,592
  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, September 2021, pages 2,874-2,879
  • Cells, December 2020, pages 1-14
  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, January 2018, pages 471-475
  • Global Dermatology, January 2016, pages 232-236
  • Dermatology, September 2013, pages 231–237
  • Journal Der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft, December 2008, pages 1,023-1,031
  • Dermatology, 1999, pages 57-60
  • Dermatology, 1999, pages 29-31
27 Bisabolol Soothing
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Soothing

27th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

(R*,R*)-.alpha.,4-dimethyl-.alpha.-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-methanol; 3-Cyclohexene-1-methanol, alpha,4-dimethyl-alpha-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-, (theta,theta)-(+/-)-; 3-Cyclohexene-1-methanol, alpha,4-dimethyl-alpha-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-, (S-(theta,theta))- (levomenol)

Soothing Anti-Aging
6 scientific references
  • CosmeticsInfoorg, Accessed May 2021, ePublication
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, August 2019, pages 299-303
  • International Journal of Toxicology, September 2017, pages 24S-25S
  • Cutis, November 2015, pages 337-342
  • Current Pharmaceutical Biotechnology, 2014, pages 173-181
  • Food and Chemical Toxicology, October 2011, pages 2580-2585
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Plant extract

28th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Populus Tremuloides Bark Extract is an extract of the bark of Populus tremuloides, Salicaceae

Anti-Aging Evens Skin Tone
29 Lecithin Emollient
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Emollient, Surfactant

29th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

Lecithins. The complex combination of diglycerides of fatty acids linked to the choline ester of phosphoric acid

Hydration
5 scientific references
  • Cosmetics, November 2020, pages 1-19
  • International Journal of Toxicology, September 2020, pages 5S-25S
  • Molecules, March 2020, pages 1-9
  • Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, March 2014, pages 1, 093-1, 101
  • Scientia Pharmaceutica, July 2013, pages 1, 151-1, 166
Estimated level
1–3%
Confidence
Moderate — INCI order above the 1% line
Roles
Emollient

30th on the list, which puts it at an estimated 1–3% of the formula.

bi(glutathion-S-yl)

31 Tocopherol Antioxidant
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Antioxidant

31st on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8-tetramethyl-2-(4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl)-2H-benzopyran-6-ol; .alpha.-tocopherol; Vitamin E

Anti-Aging Evens Skin Tone Soothing
4 scientific references
  • Journal or Agricultural and Food Chemistry, June 2010, pages 7013-7020
  • Journal of Investigative Dermatology, November 2001, pages 1212-1217
  • Canadian Family Physician, July 2006, pages 855-856
  • Dermatologic Surgery, April 1999, pages 311-315
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Emollient

32nd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds of the Sunflower, Helianthus annuus L., Compositae

Anti-Aging Hydration
4 scientific references
  • Pediatric Dermatology, August 2018, ePublication; and January-February 2013, pages 42-50
  • Chemicke Zvesti, May 2018, pages 2, 607-2, 615
  • International Journal of Molecular Sciences, December 2017, ePublication
  • Dermatology, October 2014, pages 230-239
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Active, Chelator

33rd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

D-Glucono-1,5-lactone

Evens Skin Tone Anti-Aging Hydration
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line

34th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

4-Oxovaleric acid

Anti-Aging
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line

35th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

1H-Thieno[3,4-d]imidazole-4-pentanoic acid, hexahydro-2-oxo-, [3aS-(3a.alpha.,4.beta.,6a.alpha.)]-

Anti-Aging Hydration
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Peptide

36th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is the reaction product of palmitic acid and Tripeptide-5

Anti-Aging
6 scientific references
  • Molecules, March 2023, pages 1–12
  • Pharmaceuticals, July 2021, pages 1–22
  • Frontiers in Chemistry, October 2020, pages 1–8
  • Journal of Topical and Cosmetic Science, October 2020, pages 77–82
  • Household and Personal Care Today, November/December 2015, pages 6–11
  • The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, March 2009, pages 38–43
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Peptide

37th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is the reaction product of palmitic acid and Tripeptide-38

Anti-Aging
1 scientific reference
  • Related Articles
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Active, Peptide

38th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

L-Lysine, N-(1-oxohexadecyl)glycyl-L-histidyl-

Anti-Aging
4 scientific references
  • International Journal of Toxicology, November 2018, pages 90S-102S
  • Cosmetics, May 2017, pages 1-14
  • Experimental and Therapeutic Medicine, August 2016, pages 1, 171-1, 176
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 2000, pages 207-218
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Active, Peptide

39th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 is the reaction product of palmitic acid and Tetrapeptide-7

Anti-Aging
5 scientific references
  • Cosmetics, November 2020, ePublication
  • International Journal of Toxicology, Volume 37, Supplement 3, November 2018, pages 90S–102S
  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, June 2015, pages 152–160
  • Molecular Pharmaceutics, March 2013, pages 1, 063-1, 069
  • Plastic Surgical Nursing, April 2012, pages 71–72
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Plant extract

40th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract is an extract of the flowers of the Japanese Caprofilia (honeysuckle), Lonicera japonica, Caprifoliaceae

Soothing
8 scientific references
  • How to Care for Red, Sensitive Skin
  • 7 Best Products for Sensitive Skin
  • Skincare Tips for Calming Redness
  • Skin-Soothing Ingredients
  • How the Paula’s Choice CALM Collection Works
  • The Best Moisturizers for Sensitive Skin
  • The Best Ways to Treat Acne and Sensitive Skin
  • Skin Care for Extremely Dry, Sensitive Skin
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Plant extract

41st on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract is an extract of the flowers of the Honeysuckle, Lonicera caprifolium L., Caprifoliaceae

Soothing
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Emollient, Occlusive, Texture agent

42nd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

2-Propenoic acid, homopolymer, sodium salt

Oil Control Synthetic polymer
7 scientific references
  • International Food Research Journal, February 2021, pages 44 - 55
  • Journal of Nanoscience and Nanotechnology, March 2018, pages 1, 611-1, 614
  • Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research, November 2014, pages 18, 346-18, 351
  • Journal of Applied Polymer Science, November 2001, pages 1, 515-1, 520
  • United States Patent, April 2000, ePublication
  • https://wwwsocochemcom/is-sodium-polyacrylate-safehtml
  • https://wwwcir-safetyorg/sites/default/files/acryco092018TARpdf
43 Potassium Sorbate Preservative
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Preservative

43rd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Potassium (E,E)-hexa-2,4-dienoate

44 Butylene Glycol Humectant
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Humectant, Texture agent, Solvent

44th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Butane-1,3-diol (CAS No. 107-88-0/ EC No. 203-529-7) (R)-(-)-butane-1,3-diol” (CAS No. 6290-03-5/ EC No. 228-532-0)

Hydration
5 scientific references
  • CosmeticsInfoorg, Accessed March 2021, ePublication
  • US Food and Drug Administration Code of Federal Regulations</em>, Accessed March 2021, ePublication
  • International Journal of Toxicology, May 2011, pages 5S-16S
  • Skin Research and Technology, November 2007, pages 417-24
  • Journal of the American College of Toxicology, September 1985, pages 223-248
45 Citric Acid Active
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Active, Chelator, pH adjuster

45th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

2-Hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid

46 Sodium Gluconate Chelator
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Chelator

46th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Sodium gluconate

Hydration
3 scientific references
  • International Journal of Toxicology, May/June 2019, pages 5S-38S
  • Journals of Materials Research, February 2006, pages 343-348
  • https://wwwepagov/sites/production/files/2019-08/documents/support_document_for_proposed_designation_of_d-gluconic_acid_sodium_saltpdf
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Solvent

47th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

1,2-Dihydroxypentane

Hydration
4 scientific references
  • https://thedermreviewcom/pentylene-glycol/
  • Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, July 2017, pages 106-111
  • Prospector, June 2015, ePublication
  • International Journal of Toxicology, October 2012, pages 147S-168S
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line

48th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

.beta.-Cyclodextrin, 2-hydroxypropyl ethers

49 Carbomer Texture agent
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Texture agent

49th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

2-Propenoic acid, polymer with 2,2-bis(hydroxymethyl)propane-1,3-diol 2-propenyl ether

Synthetic polymer
50 Cyclodextrin Chelator
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Chelator

50th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Cycloheptapentylose

51 Polysorbate 20 Surfactant
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Surfactant

51st on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Sorbitan, monododecanoate, poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) derivs.

52 Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
pH adjuster

52nd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Sodium hydroxide

53 Sodium Citrate Chelator
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Chelator, pH adjuster

53rd on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Trisodium citrate

Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Occlusive, Texture agent

54th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Cellulose, 2-hydroxyethyl ether

55 Phenoxyethanol Preservative
Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Preservative

55th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

2-Phenoxyethanol

Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line

56th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Benzoic acid, 4-methoxy-

Estimated level
under 1%
Confidence
Moderate — listed below the 1% line
Roles
Active, Exfoliant, Preservative

57th on the list, below the 1% line — present at under 1%, which for most ingredients is the level they work at.

Salicylic acid

Anti-Acne Anti-Aging Blackhead Reducing
10 scientific references
  • Experimental Dermatology, July 2019, pages 786-794
  • European Commission Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, June 2019, pages 1-70
  • Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, April 2018, pages 245-251
  • Journal of Cosmetic Science, January-February 2017, pages 55-58
  • Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, August 2015, pages 455-461
  • Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, November 2010, pages 135-142
  • Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, September 2008, pages 170-176
  • Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, April 2007, pages 651-663
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, February 2000, pages 21-52
  • Seminars in Dermatology, December 1990, pages 305-308

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Frequently asked questions

What ingredients are in 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream?

AQUA, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, GLYCERIN, ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OIL, PROPANEDIOL, PUNICA GRANATUM SEED OIL, METHYLSILANOL HYDROXYPROLINE ASPARTATE, SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, SODIUM ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, LEUCONOSTOC/RADISH ROOT FERMENT FILTRATE, RUBUS CHAMAEMORUS SEED OIL, HYDROLYZED JOJOBA ESTERS, BETA-GLUCAN, CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT, SACCHAROMYCES/XYLINUM/BLACK TEA FERMENT, CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT, UBIQUINONE, EPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATE, MADECASSOSIDE, ASIATICOSIDE, CERAMIDE NP, PANTHENOL, ARGININE, GLYCOLIPIDS, ORNITHINE, RETINAL, BISABOLOL, POPULUS TREMULOIDES BARK EXTRACT, LECITHIN, OXIDIZED GLUTATHIONE, TOCOPHEROL, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL, GLUCONOLACTONE, LEVULINIC ACID, BIOTIN, PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-5, PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-38, PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1, PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7, LONICERA JAPONICA FLOWER EXTRACT, LONICERA CAPRIFOLIUM FLOWER EXTRACT, SODIUM POLYACRYLATE, POTASSIUM SORBATE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, CITRIC ACID, SODIUM GLUCONATE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, HYDROXYPROPYL CYCLODEXTRIN, CARBOMER, CYCLODEXTRIN, POLYSORBATE 20, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, SODIUM CITRATE, HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE, PHENOXYETHANOL, P-ANISIC ACID, SALICYLIC ACID.

What are the active ingredients in 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream?

CERAMIDE NP, PANTHENOL, RETINAL, GLUCONOLACTONE, PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1, PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7, CITRIC ACID, SALICYLIC ACID.

How do I use 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream?

After cleansing, misting or toning, and applying your favourite serum, apply one to three pumps to your face and neck.

What skin types is 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream good for?

Judged on how rich the formula reads from its ingredient list, it suits Balanced skin best. It is the least natural fit for Dry, Combination (dry), Combination (oily), Oily skin.

Is 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream good for sensitive skin?

No ingredient in this formula carries a common-irritant flag, making it a reasonable option for reactive skin. A patch test is still recommended, as individual skin reactivity varies.

Is 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream fungal acne safe?

6 ingredients could feed malassezia: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Saccharomyces/xylinum/black Tea Ferment, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Polysorbate 20. That describes the yeast's food supply, not a prediction that they will cause a breakout.

Can I use 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream while pregnant?

It contains Retinal, Salicylic Acid, which are usually reviewed with a doctor during pregnancy. Ask your doctor or midwife before using it.

Is 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream fragrance free?

Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is fragrance-free.

Does 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream contain alcohol?

No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is no drying alcohol.

Is 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream silicone free?

Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is silicone-free.

Does 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream contain essential oils?

No. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is essential-oil-free.

Is 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream paraben free?

Yes. Reading the full ingredient list, this formula is paraben-free.

What can I layer with 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream?

It layers well with Copper peptides, Bakuchiol, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid, Ceramides, Signal peptides. Take more care combining it with Retinoids (retinol, retinal), AHAs (glycolic, lactic), BHA (salicylic acid), PHAs (gluconolactone), Benzoyl peroxide, Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Azelaic acid — use them in separate routines or on alternate days.

When should I apply 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream?

Use it morning and evening, after serums.

How many ingredients does 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream have?

It lists 57 ingredients, of which 8 are recorded as actives.

Who makes 0.05% Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream?

Allies of Skin.

Brand
Allies of Skin

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